security meet culture
That Free Spotify Tutorial Stole Your Passwords - Here's What to Do
By Kim Komando
Criminals are running polished fake tutorial videos on social media promising free Spotify Premium, Microsoft Office and Windows activation. Following the steps installs a password-stealing malware called Vidar that quietly takes every saved login, bank credential and credit card number on your device. One video got 100,000 views. Here's exactly what it grabs and what to do right now.
Criminals are running polished fake tutorial videos on social media promising free Spotify Premium, Microsoft Office and Windows activation. Following the steps installs a password-stealing malware called Vidar that quietly takes every saved login, bank credential and credit card number on your device. One video got 100,000 views. Here's exactly what it grabs and what to do right now.
ChatGPT/Kim Komando
Your saved passwords. Your bank logins. The card numbers sitting in your browser. Even the codes that are supposed to stop a stranger from getting in when they have your password. Gone. All of it, copied and shipped to a criminal in seconds.
And you handed it over yourself. While watching a video.
You're scrolling. A polished, professional clip pops up. Someone walks you through getting Spotify Premium for free. No credit card. No subscription. A few quick steps. You follow along. You type the command they show you on screen. That's the whole trap.
What's really going on
Researchers at ReversingLabs found 2 active campaigns using TikTok, Facebook and Instagram Reels to spread malware called Vidar. The accounts look legit. Names like "windows.tips" and "windows.insights," real Windows-style branding, AI voice-overs so clean most people never suspect a thing. Criminals lean on the same algorithm that feeds you cooking videos and puppy clips to push this in front of millions. One tutorial passed 100,000 views before anyone flagged it.
The command they tell you to paste-- PowerShell on Windows, Terminal on a Mac-- quietly downloads and runs a script. Vidar installs in the background while you're still watching. And Mac users, you're not immune. The same "paste this to unlock it free" trick targets you. Different command, same break-in.
Vidar doesn't grab one thing. It takes everything. Saved passwords, bank credentials, card numbers, crypto wallet details, the cookies that keep you logged in, even the tokens that let it walk right past 2-factor protection. It sells as a service for $300 a lifetime license, and a stealth upgrade last October made it harder to catch. By the time you notice anything's wrong, they've already got the keys to your entire digital life.
If that was you, move now
Followed a tutorial like this? Don't panic. Don't wait either.
Your home is next
When Vidar steals your bank login, that's bad. When it steals your mortgage servicer login, it can be catastrophic.
Home title fraud starts exactly the way you'd expect after a breach like this. A criminal gets your personal information, forges your signature on a deed and transfers your home into their name. Then they take out loans against your equity or sell the property entirely. You find out after the damage is done.
It recently happened in Ohio. Terry Anderson and Angela Croley forged a quitclaim deed and had it notarized using a fake power of attorney to steal a house from a man with dementia in Jefferson Township. They filed it at the county recorder's office on Oct. 8. By Oct. 14, his daughter had called the sheriff. By then, someone was already squatting in her father's house and trying to sell his deed. Anderson and Croley pleaded guilty June 5.
The FBI says cybercriminals stole more than $275 million through real estate fraud from over 12,000 victims last year alone. And that number is going up.
You worked your whole life for that house. Here's how Home Title Lock protects it:
And you handed it over yourself. While watching a video.
You're scrolling. A polished, professional clip pops up. Someone walks you through getting Spotify Premium for free. No credit card. No subscription. A few quick steps. You follow along. You type the command they show you on screen. That's the whole trap.
What's really going on
Researchers at ReversingLabs found 2 active campaigns using TikTok, Facebook and Instagram Reels to spread malware called Vidar. The accounts look legit. Names like "windows.tips" and "windows.insights," real Windows-style branding, AI voice-overs so clean most people never suspect a thing. Criminals lean on the same algorithm that feeds you cooking videos and puppy clips to push this in front of millions. One tutorial passed 100,000 views before anyone flagged it.
The command they tell you to paste-- PowerShell on Windows, Terminal on a Mac-- quietly downloads and runs a script. Vidar installs in the background while you're still watching. And Mac users, you're not immune. The same "paste this to unlock it free" trick targets you. Different command, same break-in.
Vidar doesn't grab one thing. It takes everything. Saved passwords, bank credentials, card numbers, crypto wallet details, the cookies that keep you logged in, even the tokens that let it walk right past 2-factor protection. It sells as a service for $300 a lifetime license, and a stealth upgrade last October made it harder to catch. By the time you notice anything's wrong, they've already got the keys to your entire digital life.
If that was you, move now
Followed a tutorial like this? Don't panic. Don't wait either.
- Grab a different, clean device and change your passwords there. Start with your bank, your email, anything financial. A password manager gives every account its own.
- Lock down 2-factor with an authenticator app or a hardware key, not texts. Those make the stolen tokens far harder to use.
- Then run a malware scan with a trusted tool. Anything it flags, you've already started fixing.
- The video looked like a shortcut. It was a 1-way door.
Your home is next
When Vidar steals your bank login, that's bad. When it steals your mortgage servicer login, it can be catastrophic.
Home title fraud starts exactly the way you'd expect after a breach like this. A criminal gets your personal information, forges your signature on a deed and transfers your home into their name. Then they take out loans against your equity or sell the property entirely. You find out after the damage is done.
It recently happened in Ohio. Terry Anderson and Angela Croley forged a quitclaim deed and had it notarized using a fake power of attorney to steal a house from a man with dementia in Jefferson Township. They filed it at the county recorder's office on Oct. 8. By Oct. 14, his daughter had called the sheriff. By then, someone was already squatting in her father's house and trying to sell his deed. Anderson and Croley pleaded guilty June 5.
The FBI says cybercriminals stole more than $275 million through real estate fraud from over 12,000 victims last year alone. And that number is going up.
You worked your whole life for that house. Here's how Home Title Lock protects it:
- 24/7 monitoring. Their proprietary software scans the largest property record databases in the country around the clock, watching for any activity tied to your title. Any filing. Any change. Any attempt.
- Urgent alerts. The moment something hits your title, you get notified. Not days later. Not in a monthly report. Right away, while you can still do something about it.
- Restoration. If fraud does occur, their US-based team of title restoration experts goes to work. They'll spend up to $1 million in legal fees, filing costs and administrative support to fix the fraud and restore your title.
How to Prevent Your Android Phone Keyboard from Tracking You: 2 Options
By Jack Wallen for ZDNET
Jack Wallen/ZDNET
Everything is tracking us. You can have a conversation with someone without even unlocking your phone, and the next day, that device will show you ads based on what you talked about. It's not just infuriating; it's kind of frightening.
What's worse, the companies behind all of this don't seem to really care about our privacy. What was once a given is now opt-out, and sometimes opting out is obfuscated in such a way that you have no idea it's even possible.
Another thing that'll make you want to chuck your Android phone against a wall is that your keyboard is tracking you. Yes, your keyboard. Why? Autocorrect, typing suggestions, AI ... it all uses an internet connection to work, and because of that, it can track you. I, for one, cannot tolerate yet another thing tracking me. I'm done with it.
To that end, I decided to see if there was a way to prevent it from happening.
How to prevent your Android keyboard from tracking you
There are 2 options, but I truly trust only 1 of them.
1. Make the default more private
Gboard is the default Android keyboard, and unless you take the time to make it private, it's tracking you. Yes, there is a way to stop some of this, but whether or not it's 100% is up in the air.
What you can disable within the Gboard settings:
To disable these features-- and you most certainly should-- open the Settings app on your phone, type languages, tap Languages Gboard, tap Privacy, and tap the On/Off sliders for each option until they are in the Off position.
What's worse, the companies behind all of this don't seem to really care about our privacy. What was once a given is now opt-out, and sometimes opting out is obfuscated in such a way that you have no idea it's even possible.
Another thing that'll make you want to chuck your Android phone against a wall is that your keyboard is tracking you. Yes, your keyboard. Why? Autocorrect, typing suggestions, AI ... it all uses an internet connection to work, and because of that, it can track you. I, for one, cannot tolerate yet another thing tracking me. I'm done with it.
To that end, I decided to see if there was a way to prevent it from happening.
How to prevent your Android keyboard from tracking you
There are 2 options, but I truly trust only 1 of them.
1. Make the default more private
Gboard is the default Android keyboard, and unless you take the time to make it private, it's tracking you. Yes, there is a way to stop some of this, but whether or not it's 100% is up in the air.
What you can disable within the Gboard settings:
- Share usage statistics: automatically send keyboard usage statistics to Google.
- Personalize for you: improve typing and voice typing based on your Gboard usage patterns and corrections.
- Improve for everyone: help Google get better at recognizing words and phrases for everyone, based on your Gboard usage.
- Audio donations: snippets of your audio input on Gboard are sent to and stored on Google servers.
To disable these features-- and you most certainly should-- open the Settings app on your phone, type languages, tap Languages Gboard, tap Privacy, and tap the On/Off sliders for each option until they are in the Off position.
Yes, you can gain more privacy by disabling these features, but there's a much better way. Jack Wallen/ZDNET
There's a better way.
2. Use FUTO Keyboard
FUTO Keyboard is an open-source replacement keyboard that is every bit as good as Gboard. Even better, it looks and feels like Gboard, so your fingers won't have to worry about a learning curve. Install it, enable it, use it. It's that good.
The beauty of FUTO is that everything is handled on-device, so you don't have to worry about your data being sent to a 3rd-party server for analysis, storage, and usage.
I've been using FUTO Keyboard for a while now, and I'm here to tell you that it feels more like an upgrade than a downgrade. You can install FUTO Keyboard from the Google Play Store simply by opening the Play Store app, searching for FUTO, and tapping Install.
Once installed, open the app and walk through the simple onboarding wizard. With FUTO installed, you can customize quite a bit, such as languages, keyboard and typing, swipe typing, text prediction, voice input, actions, and themes.
This keyboard test is part of the onboarding for FUTO Keyboard. Jack Wallen/ZDNET
The Actions feature is pretty nifty.
By default, the Actions key is set up to open the Emoji picker, but you can change it to any one of the included actions, such as Voice Input, Language Switching, Undo, Redo, Text Editor, Clipboard Manager, Theme Switcher, Keyboard Modes, Settings, Paste From Clipboard, Cut to Clipboard, Copy to Clipboard, Select All, Arrow Up, Arrow Down, Arrow Left, Arrow Right, and WordStyle.
FUTO Actions allows you to change the Actions key, directly to the left of the spacebar. Jack Wallen/ZDNET
Most will probably leave the Actions key set to Emoji, but it's nice to know that there are options.
You can also customize the Backspace swipe action to delete characters or words, the spacebar swipe to move the cursor or switch languages, or the spacebar hold action to switch languages or move the cursor.
You can customize swiping and long-press actions as well. Jack Wallen/ZDNET
It took me all of about 5 minutes to realize that FUTO Keyboard was superior to Gboard, not only because it wouldn't track me, but because it had more options than the default.
If you are concerned at all about your phone tracking you, do yourself a favor and install FUTO Keyboard. Yes, you can disable all of those features on Gboard, but why not retain those features while also having them function locally by using this open-source alternative.
YouTube can Drop You into Any Video & Strangers can Pop into Yours
By Kim Komando
ChatGPT/Kim Komando
Whoa! That looks like me up top on the TV, starring in a futuristic sci-fi flick like I trained for it my whole life-- I didn't. The closest I get to special effects is yelling at Siri. And I didn't shoot a single second of it.
At Google I/O, the platform quietly switched on AI tools that let you drop yourself into someone else's video or remix their clip with you in the starring role.
Three billion people are on YouTube. Almost none of them knows this button is sitting there. Now, you do.
Put yourself in the video
A new tool called Reimagine is rolling out free in the YouTube app. It takes a single scene from an eligible Short and rebuilds it into a fresh clip with you in it. Want to be the one skydiving, dancing or cooking? A few taps and a selfie, and you're in.
The AI generates audio to match. Here's how to try it:
It's still rolling out, so if you don't see Reimagine yet, give it a week. Every clip you make links back to the original video, so the creator still gets credit.
Lock down your own videos
This is the part nobody's advertising. Your videos are opted into remixing by default. That means strangers can grab your clips and turn them into AI versions without asking.
Anything you've posted, a birthday clip, a backyard moment, a video of the grandkids, can be fed into the tool by a total stranger. If that makes your skin crawl, change it.
This one's desktop only, and you set it per video. Annoying, I know.
The fun and the risk are the same feature. Play with it, then go protect what's yours. Both take 5 minutes.
At Google I/O, the platform quietly switched on AI tools that let you drop yourself into someone else's video or remix their clip with you in the starring role.
Three billion people are on YouTube. Almost none of them knows this button is sitting there. Now, you do.
Put yourself in the video
A new tool called Reimagine is rolling out free in the YouTube app. It takes a single scene from an eligible Short and rebuilds it into a fresh clip with you in it. Want to be the one skydiving, dancing or cooking? A few taps and a selfie, and you're in.
The AI generates audio to match. Here's how to try it:
- Open the YouTube app and find an eligible Short.
- Tap Remix, then Reimagine.
- Type what you want, or pick one of the suggested prompts.
- Add up to 3 photos from your gallery. A clear, well-lit selfie works best.
- Tap Next and let it generate, then preview before you post.
It's still rolling out, so if you don't see Reimagine yet, give it a week. Every clip you make links back to the original video, so the creator still gets credit.
Lock down your own videos
This is the part nobody's advertising. Your videos are opted into remixing by default. That means strangers can grab your clips and turn them into AI versions without asking.
Anything you've posted, a birthday clip, a backyard moment, a video of the grandkids, can be fed into the tool by a total stranger. If that makes your skin crawl, change it.
This one's desktop only, and you set it per video. Annoying, I know.
- Go to studio.youtube.com on a computer-- not the regular YouTube site.
- In the left menu, click Content.
- Check the box next to the video you want to protect.
- Click Edit in the bar that appears at the top.
- Select Shorts remixing from the drop-down.
- Choose Allow only audio remixing or Don't allow remixing.
The fun and the risk are the same feature. Play with it, then go protect what's yours. Both take 5 minutes.
Stop Restarting Your PC and Change these 5 Windows Settings Instead
By Jorge A. Aguilar for How-To Geek
If your PC has been feeling slow lately, you've probably already tried the obvious restart fix. Sometimes that works for a while, but the same slowdown creeps back within days. There are a few things you can do that go beyond random online tips. I have done these, and they work really well.
Disable Windows Fast Startup - It saves you seconds but costs you so much more
If your PC has been feeling slow lately, you've probably already tried the obvious restart fix. Sometimes that works for a while, but the same slowdown creeps back within days. There are a few things you can do that go beyond random online tips. I have done these, and they work really well.
Disable Windows Fast Startup - It saves you seconds but costs you so much more
Credit: Jason Fitzpatrick / How-To Geek
Fast Startup has been around since Windows 8, and its job is to make your PC boot faster. The way it does this is a bit sneaky, because it closes your apps and logs you out like normal, but it doesn't actually power down the core operating system. Instead, it saves the kernel along with all your loaded drivers.
Next time you press the power button, Windows skips the full hardware startup routine and just reloads everything from that file. It's essentially hibernation dressed up as a shutdown.
That shortcut comes with a real downside, because it also saves anything that went wrong before you shut down. So memory leaks, driver issues, hardware conflicts, or degraded performance don't get fixed.
This also causes issues with Windows updates, which need a complete restart to install properly. If you're running a dual-boot setup or using full-disk encryption, the fact that Windows leaves the drive in a locked hibernation state can cause serious compatibility problems.
It's not worth it just to load up a few seconds faster. To turn it off, open the Control Panel and then Power Options. From there, pick Choose what the power buttons do, then Change settings that are currently unavailable, and turn off Turn on fast startup.
Once you save that change, shutting down your PC will actually mean shutting it down.
Turn off background app permissions - Not every app needs to stay on
Credit: Jorge A. Aguilar for How-To Geek
Older Windows programs used to be either open or closed, but modern built-in Windows apps work differently under the hood. Even after you minimize them or switch to another window, they don't actually shut down. Many apps hang around in the background, eating up memory and processor resources without you realizing it.
Windows manages this through a feature called the Process Lifecycle Manager. This basically changes apps between actively running, suspended, or fully stopped. When an app gets suspended, its main activity pauses, but Windows still lets it run small background tasks that listen for things like network changes, notifications, and system timers.
The app's data stays loaded in your RAM the whole time. All of this adds up and slows down your computer. You can restart your PC, which clears everything out. For a longer-lasting solution, just tell Windows to stop letting these apps run in the background at all.
Open Settings, go to Apps, Installed Apps, and click the 3-dot menu next to any built-in app you rarely use. From there, just select Advanced Options and set the background apps permission dropdown to Never.
Clear your Delivery Optimization cache - Always clear caches
Windows manages this through a feature called the Process Lifecycle Manager. This basically changes apps between actively running, suspended, or fully stopped. When an app gets suspended, its main activity pauses, but Windows still lets it run small background tasks that listen for things like network changes, notifications, and system timers.
The app's data stays loaded in your RAM the whole time. All of this adds up and slows down your computer. You can restart your PC, which clears everything out. For a longer-lasting solution, just tell Windows to stop letting these apps run in the background at all.
Open Settings, go to Apps, Installed Apps, and click the 3-dot menu next to any built-in app you rarely use. From there, just select Advanced Options and set the background apps permission dropdown to Never.
Clear your Delivery Optimization cache - Always clear caches
Credit: Jorge A. Aguilar for How-To Geek
Windows Delivery Optimization is a built-in feature that turns your PC into part of a peer-to-peer network for downloading Windows Updates and Microsoft Store apps. Instead of pulling every update directly from Microsoft's servers, your computer can grab pieces of those updates from nearby machines on your local network or other peers online and share them back out in return. This saves internet bandwidth and speeds things up.
The catch is that all those cached update fragments take up space on your hard drive, and they build up over time. This could end up being gigabytes. Restarting the computer won't fix this one.
When your drive starts filling up, everything slows down. Windows needs free space to write files, run background tasks, and manage virtual memory. This can slow your PC down, so you have to make sure to regularly clean it.
Open the Settings, go to System, and then Storage. From there, pick Temporary Files and check the box for Delivery Optimization Files. After that, click Remove Files, and you're good. You're likely going to see a lot of space open up immediately.
Turn off those Visual Effects - This is the most unnecessary feature
Credit: Jorge Aguilar / How To Geek
A newer computer looks better because it doesn't always let apps draw directly to your screen. Instead, it gives every open window its own chunk of graphics memory, then stitches everything together into one image before you see it. That's what powers the frosted glass effects, the animated transitions, and the little thumbnails when you hover over the taskbar.
Those touches make Windows look cooler, but they come at a cost. Your CPU and GPU are quietly working to maintain all of it in the background. Over a long session, that adds up, and you start noticing stutters, input lag, and a general feeling that the computer is dragging.
You can cut out most of that overhead by turning off the visual effects entirely. You really don't need them, and I've never noticed that they were gone after changing this.
Type advanced system settings into the Windows search bar and hit the Settings button under the Performance section. Then choose Adjust for best performance and click Apply.
Disable Virtualization-Based Security Core Isolation - You're not getting hit by hackers this determined
Credit: Jorge Aguilar / How To Geek
Virtualization-based security and its Core Isolation features are a big part of how Windows defends against malware; there's no arguing against that. Running that extra layer comes with a real processing cost that can noticeably hurt performance in demanding tasks.
The problem is that all that hardware-level policing makes things harder for your CPU. To keep that strict memory isolation, the hypervisor relies heavily on Second Level Address Translation, which adds a second layer of nested page tables underneath the OS's normal memory translation process. All that security is nice, but you really don't need it.
If you need every bit of hardware responsiveness, disabling Memory Integrity to cut that overhead is usually worth it. Yes, it brings your security boundary back down to standard Ring 0 controls, but it completely removes the nested virtualization delays that are holding your hardware back.
To turn it off, open the Windows Security app, click Device Security, select Core Isolation details, and toggle Memory Integrity off. After saving and restarting, you should be good.
Make judgment calls on which to use
Most of these changes need a few trade-offs. Use your best judgment on those. Trading a layer of kernel-level protection for better frame pacing and input responsiveness makes sense for a dedicated gaming machine, but it might not be wise for a PC you also use for work or banking. The other changes; clearing the Delivery Optimization cache, turning off Fast Startup, cutting background app permissions, and stripping visual effects, carry almost no downside.
Please Set Up and Maintain Account Recovery Information
Google Fi Used to be the Best for International Travel - these Cheap eSIMs Beat it Now
By Joe Fedewa for How-To Geek
I wouldn't call myself a "frequent flyer," but I've done some international traveling. My carrier of choice for those trips was Google Fi. However, it seems I might need to rethink that before my next trip across the ocean-- especially if it's lengthy.
Google Fi isn't for long stays outside of the US - You can't roam forever
I wouldn't call myself a "frequent flyer," but I've done some international traveling. My carrier of choice for those trips was Google Fi. However, it seems I might need to rethink that before my next trip across the ocean-- especially if it's lengthy.
Google Fi isn't for long stays outside of the US - You can't roam forever
Credit: Nick Lewis / How-To Geek
The primary issue with Google Fi when it comes to international travel depends on how long you're away from home. Some people live in other countries for chunks of the year, and that's when using Google Fi can become questionable-- and against the terms of service.
Google is clear to state that "Fi service is intended for regular use within the US. International data will be disabled after extended non-US use." In other words, Google Fi is for people residing in the US. It'll keep you covered if you travel abroad, but not if you live abroad.
Using Google Fi outside of the US for an "extended period of time" will bring you a warning email and a suspension of international data if your account stays active 30 days afterward. The exact time period is "usually 50 days," according to Google. Returning to the US for at least a week will reset the clock.
Now, 50 days is a considerable length of time for a vacation. However, it's not very long if you have a residence in another country. You can't be a Google Fi customer and live outside the US for multiple months at a time.
Cheap travel eSIMs are better for some trips - Don't assume Google Fi has the best price
But what about shorter trips to countries outside of the US? I like Google Fi for international travel because of its easy plan switching, no up-charge for international data, and data-only SIMs. However, some recent options may be better for those who aren't staying away for long, or would previously have switched to Fi only for a trip.
Airalo, Holafly, Saily, and Nomad-- not sponsored-- are a few companies that offer affordable travel eSIMs. For example, you can get 7 days of unlimited data in Europe for just $27 with Airalo. You'd pay the same price for 7 days in Japan with Holafly. You get the idea.
Google is clear to state that "Fi service is intended for regular use within the US. International data will be disabled after extended non-US use." In other words, Google Fi is for people residing in the US. It'll keep you covered if you travel abroad, but not if you live abroad.
Using Google Fi outside of the US for an "extended period of time" will bring you a warning email and a suspension of international data if your account stays active 30 days afterward. The exact time period is "usually 50 days," according to Google. Returning to the US for at least a week will reset the clock.
Now, 50 days is a considerable length of time for a vacation. However, it's not very long if you have a residence in another country. You can't be a Google Fi customer and live outside the US for multiple months at a time.
Cheap travel eSIMs are better for some trips - Don't assume Google Fi has the best price
But what about shorter trips to countries outside of the US? I like Google Fi for international travel because of its easy plan switching, no up-charge for international data, and data-only SIMs. However, some recent options may be better for those who aren't staying away for long, or would previously have switched to Fi only for a trip.
Airalo, Holafly, Saily, and Nomad-- not sponsored-- are a few companies that offer affordable travel eSIMs. For example, you can get 7 days of unlimited data in Europe for just $27 with Airalo. You'd pay the same price for 7 days in Japan with Holafly. You get the idea.
Credit: How-To Geek
When I spent 15 days in Europe last year, I bumped up to Google Fi's Unlimited Premium plan for 1e month to get unlimited international data. It was $62 more than my usual 2-person plan, which felt fine for just 1 month. However, I could have snagged 10GB eSIMs for my wife and I from Nomad and saved around $20 with plenty to spare.
The power of dual-wielding eSIMs - Your phone can probably use two eSIMs
The power of dual-wielding eSIMs - Your phone can probably use two eSIMs
Credit: Patrick Campanale / How-To Geek
You may have noticed I only mentioned data for the travel eSIMs. What about calls and texts? Your phone probably supports multiple eSIMs, and that is how many Google Fi customers have been saving money.
For example, Google Fi's Flexible plan includes international calls and texts. It starts at $35 for 2 people, plus $10 per GB of data that you use. However, if you use a cheap travel eSIM for data, you don't have to worry about Google Fi's $10 per GB. Take advantage of Fi's affordable international calling and supplement it with a travel eSIM. Best of both worlds.
At the end of the day, it's all about what makes sense for you. If you don't want to deal with signing up and activating various services and making sure your phone is using a specific eSIM for data, paying a bit more for the simplicity of Google Fi may be worth it. The point is, there are more options out there than ever before. Google Fi's reign as the best international travel carrier isn't as steady these days.
Stop Using Home Assistant's Default Settings - 5 Things to Change
By Tim Brookes for How-To Geek
Home Assistant gives you a high level of control over how you run your smart home. In your rush to add devices, integrations, and automations, you might overlook some basic customization options.
Here are some settings you should at least know about, if not change immediately.
Turn on backups - Make sure they're accessible
Home Assistant gives you a high level of control over how you run your smart home. In your rush to add devices, integrations, and automations, you might overlook some basic customization options.
Here are some settings you should at least know about, if not change immediately.
Turn on backups - Make sure they're accessible
Credit: How-To Geek
Home Assistant does not enable backups by default; you need to do it manually. Head to Settings > System > Backups to rectify this. I'd recommend backing up every day, at a time when you're usually asleep, and nothing important is happening. You can choose how many backups to keep, just in case something goes wrong and you need to roll your server back.
You can change what is included under the Backup settings menu. By default, all of your paired devices, mesh network settings, personal customizations, core integrations, automations, scripts, dashboards, and so on will be included. You might also want to enable History to make sure that your sensor data is safe-- this can be handy if you want to create a vacation mode, for example.
Simply turning on backups isn't enough if they never leave your server. You'll want to copy those backups elsewhere, either to cloud storage-- which we'll get to in a second-- or a remote drive somewhere else on your network. I expose my Home Assistant server's backups to the network and run a script to copy them elsewhere.
Make your server accessible remotely - Home Assistant Cloud makes it easy
You can change what is included under the Backup settings menu. By default, all of your paired devices, mesh network settings, personal customizations, core integrations, automations, scripts, dashboards, and so on will be included. You might also want to enable History to make sure that your sensor data is safe-- this can be handy if you want to create a vacation mode, for example.
Simply turning on backups isn't enough if they never leave your server. You'll want to copy those backups elsewhere, either to cloud storage-- which we'll get to in a second-- or a remote drive somewhere else on your network. I expose my Home Assistant server's backups to the network and run a script to copy them elsewhere.
Make your server accessible remotely - Home Assistant Cloud makes it easy
Credit: Nabu Casa
One of Home Assistant's core selling points is that it's an entirely offline smart home platform. It doesn't need the internet to function, and that means your smart home won't be exposed to the internet without your say. In its default state, you can only access Home Assistant while you're on the same network as your server.
For some, this is enough. For others, being able to check in on your server from anywhere is vital. To do this, you'll need to enable some form of remote access on your Home Assistant server. The simplest option is to subscribe to Home Assistant Cloud for $6.50 per month-- you'll get a month-long trial.
Home Assistant Cloud gives you remote access and cloud backup, plus you can feel good about supporting the project. Alternatively, you can use a reverse proxy or VPN to access your server from anywhere. One last option for Apple users is to bypass Home Assistant remote access and use Apple Home as a remote mirror instead.
Assign different modes to your automations - Different automations have different modes of operation
Credit: How-To Geek
Did you know that there are 4 different modes to choose from when you build a Home Assistant automation? These are single mode, restart mode, queued mode, and parallel mode. Which mode you choose decides how and when the automation is triggered again.
This is useful for doing things like triggering automations before the current sequence of events has finished. This is ideal if you have a motion-sensing light, which switches off automatically after a set period of time has passed. Switching to restart mode will reset the timer each time the motion sensor is triggered.
Parallel mode is good for ensuring that every sequence of events is followed, like an announcement you wouldn't want to miss. Queued mode ensures that one sequence completes entirely before the actions are run again. Single mode is the default mode that you're probably already using. Read more about using different automation modes in Home Assistant.
Credit: How-To Geek
Home Assistant asks you to pick a username and password when you first set it up. It can be tempting to treat this like a master login that anyone and everyone uses, like how you probably treat your router login.
Unlike a router, Home Assistant is a lot more personal. Different people need different levels of access; some may want specific dashboard views, or specific themes. As such, it's prudent to create as many accounts as necessary for your household under Settings > People and define privileges for each.
Once everyone has their own login, you can even create people-specific automations. For example, you can use Home Assistant's companion mobile apps to detect presence-- or use your router as a presence sensor by monitoring for IP addresses.
Turn on multi-factor authentication - Lock it down
Credit: How-To Geek
You can further secure your login by adding multi-factor authentication (MFA) to your account. This is especially important if you're the "owner" account since you have absolute control of your smart home, and your account being compromised could lead to security and privacy issues.
To do this, log into your account and click or tap on your name from the main dashboard view. Now use the Security tab to find Multi-factor authentication modules and follow the instructions to enable MFA using your choice of authenticator app.
You might want to insist anyone else with admin-level privileges do this if you're concerned about server security. This is especially important if you have Home Assistant Cloud, since a lost device could be used to access your smart home, find your address, see your cameras, and worse.
TIP: If a device becomes lost, you can disable login on a per-account basis using the Settings > People menu by clicking on a user and toggling login off.
Just getting started with Home Assistant? Make sure you understand what is expected of you in terms of smart home maintenance.
The 60-Second AI Move that Finds the Errors Tanking Your Credit Score
By Kim Komando
One in 5 credit reports has a mistake, and the bureaus won't fix it for you. Here's the AI prompt that reads your report, flags the errors and writes the dispute letters tonight.
One in 5 credit reports has a mistake, and the bureaus won't fix it for you. Here's the AI prompt that reads your report, flags the errors and writes the dispute letters tonight.
ChatGPT/Kim Komando
Nobody wants to talk about their credit score. I get it.
One in 5 people has an error on a credit report, according to the FTC. A late payment that was never late. An account that isn't yours. A balance you cleared years ago, still hanging around like a bad houseguest.
The bureaus won't fix it for you. They wait for you to catch it. And most people never look, so the mistake sits there, quietly bumping up the interest on every loan you'll ever take. That's your cash walking out the door, one bogus line at a time.
Not anymore. We're putting AI on the case.
Pull your report first
Go to AnnualCreditReport.com. It's the only truly free one. Pull all 3. The errors hide in the differences between them, and one bureau won't catch what another missed.
Then we're going to feed your reports into your AI chatbot and ask it to spot patterns your tired eyes scroll past.
60-second redaction checklist
Before that report touches any AI, grab a black marker for paper or your PDF editor's redact tool for digital. (Don't just highlight. Highlighting can be undone.)
- Cross out: Your SSN, DOB, every full account number, home address, phone number, driver's license or any ID numbers and the report's confirmation or file number at the top.
- Keep: Creditor names, balances, payment history, account status, dates opened and credit limits.
- Then scan it. Your credit's worth the extra minute.
Let AI do the digging
Open ChatGPT, Claude, Gemini or Grok and paste this:
"You're a consumer credit expert. I'm pasting my credit report below for all three credit bureaus. I've removed my personal identifiers. Find every possible error, duplicate account, outdated item or anything that looks wrong. List each one, explain why it's a problem and write a separate, dispute letter for each bureau, citing my rights under the Fair Credit Reporting Act. Keep the letters firm and specific. Here are my reports: [paste]."
Print the letters. Mail or upload them. The bureau has 30 days to respond by law, and a no-response usually means the item comes off.
One more thing. After the AI spits out your dispute letters, delete the chat. No reason to leave your financial life sitting in a history log.
That's it. I don't get why my credit score is so low. The bank keeps telling me my balance is outstanding.
You Keep Failing those 'Click All the Traffic Lghts' Tests for a Reason: The Robots got Better at Them than You Are
By Kim Komando
That maddening puzzle asking you to prove you're human? AI aces it faster than you do. Here's the twist nobody told you: You're the one who trained it. And what quietly replaced the test should make you look twice at that little checkbox.
That maddening puzzle asking you to prove you're human? AI aces it faster than you do. Here's the twist nobody told you: You're the one who trained it. And what quietly replaced the test should make you look twice at that little checkbox.
ChatGPT/Kim Komando
The thing that drives me up a wall are those online tests that make me prove I'm human.
Find the motorcycle. Great. I tag the handlebars, the seat, both wheels. Then an eighth of an inch of muffler pokes into the next square. Does that count? Click it, wrong. Skip it, wrong.
Either way, a website made me, a grown adult, sweat over a moped. Here's the twist. Robots pass that test in a second flat.
You trained them
Remember those years clicking traffic lights, storefronts and buses? You weren't proving you're human. You were doing free labor. The early tests made you type 2 warped words. One proved you were real. The other was scanned text no computer could read. You transcribed books for free.
So the puzzles are vanishing, replaced by systems that watch you instead of quizzing you. They track your mouse, typing speed, phone's tilt, even behavior patterns, then decide if you're human before any puzzle appears.
That little "I'm not a robot" checkbox isn't reading your click. It's reading everything you did to get there. Over 70 signals, judged in the background. You passed a test you didn't know you were taking.
Watch out for this scam going around
There's a nasty trick called ClickFix, and it's everywhere. Attacks surged 517% in a year, feeding on the exact CAPTCHA frustration we talked about.
Here's the play. You hit a page that looks like a normal verify-you're-human check. Instead of traffic lights, it says the check failed and offers a fix. Press Windows + R. Paste this. Hit Enter. Sometimes it's dressed up as a Cloudflare box or a fake Windows update.
Don't touch it. The moment you land, it drops a command onto your clipboard. Paste it, hit Enter and you ran malware on yourself. It grab your logins, bank details, crypto, even screenshots.
A real human check never asks you to open a box, paste a command or press a key combo. If it does, close the tab. Already pasted something? Disconnect, run a malware scan and change your passwords from another device.
That page isn't checking if you're human. It's checking if you're gullible. Don't pass.
Find the motorcycle. Great. I tag the handlebars, the seat, both wheels. Then an eighth of an inch of muffler pokes into the next square. Does that count? Click it, wrong. Skip it, wrong.
Either way, a website made me, a grown adult, sweat over a moped. Here's the twist. Robots pass that test in a second flat.
You trained them
Remember those years clicking traffic lights, storefronts and buses? You weren't proving you're human. You were doing free labor. The early tests made you type 2 warped words. One proved you were real. The other was scanned text no computer could read. You transcribed books for free.
So the puzzles are vanishing, replaced by systems that watch you instead of quizzing you. They track your mouse, typing speed, phone's tilt, even behavior patterns, then decide if you're human before any puzzle appears.
That little "I'm not a robot" checkbox isn't reading your click. It's reading everything you did to get there. Over 70 signals, judged in the background. You passed a test you didn't know you were taking.
Watch out for this scam going around
There's a nasty trick called ClickFix, and it's everywhere. Attacks surged 517% in a year, feeding on the exact CAPTCHA frustration we talked about.
Here's the play. You hit a page that looks like a normal verify-you're-human check. Instead of traffic lights, it says the check failed and offers a fix. Press Windows + R. Paste this. Hit Enter. Sometimes it's dressed up as a Cloudflare box or a fake Windows update.
Don't touch it. The moment you land, it drops a command onto your clipboard. Paste it, hit Enter and you ran malware on yourself. It grab your logins, bank details, crypto, even screenshots.
A real human check never asks you to open a box, paste a command or press a key combo. If it does, close the tab. Already pasted something? Disconnect, run a malware scan and change your passwords from another device.
That page isn't checking if you're human. It's checking if you're gullible. Don't pass.
How Do I Stop Spam?
Your TV can now Control Your Entire Smart Home - without Sending Data to Google or Amazon
By Bertel King for How-To Geek
Using a TV to control your smart home makes sense, which is why Google Home and Samsung SmartThings come baked into many TVs. But what if you want something a little more private? In the absence of a Home Assistant Android TV app, Homey's new release is your next best bet.
Homey has released an Android TV app for controlling your smart home - The Homey app you already know, now ready for the big screen
Using a TV to control your smart home makes sense, which is why Google Home and Samsung SmartThings come baked into many TVs. But what if you want something a little more private? In the absence of a Home Assistant Android TV app, Homey's new release is your next best bet.
Homey has released an Android TV app for controlling your smart home - The Homey app you already know, now ready for the big screen
Credit: Joe Fedewa / How-To Geek
Homey is a Dutch company known for shipping small little boxes that function as smart home hubs. They're around the size of an Apple TV or Roku Ultra, and they relay information to your smart switches and thermostats without all of that information needing to travel through the cloud. This makes the boxes more private than the major cloud-based options like Amazon Alexa, Google Home, and Samsung SmartThings
The major players are known to be in the industry in part to gather more information on how we use the devices in our homes. Admittedly, LG's acquisition of Homey has thrown some of these privacy credentials into question, but for the time being, Homey's privacy policy remains one of the most transparent I've seen.
Homey hubs pair with a companion app on your Android or iOS device, though there is also a web app you can run in a browser. Now there's a version for Android TV and TVs running LG webOS. This frees Homey controls from the confines of your most personal device, allowing family members and babysitters to trigger automations without needing to find you or download their own version of the app. To download the new app, your TV must be a supported model released since 2021.
If you've used the Homey mobile app, you know how to use this one - It's the same Homey experience, only bigger.
Credit: Bertel King /How-to Geek
My TV is a Samsung Frame TV running Tizen, so it's not a supported device. Yet since I reviewed the Homey Pro mini and have both it and the Homey Pro on hand, I downloaded the new Homey Android TV app to my Anker Nebula Capsule Air projector running Android TV instead. That's why the photos above are, well, decidedly not images of a TV.
Nonetheless, my Nebula projector runs the same version of Android TV that you find on many televisions, so the software experience is the same. Simply turn on your TV, click over to the Apps tab, click on the search box, type Homey, click on the Homey for Android TV app, and select Install.
Once the app is installed, it will display a QR code for you to scan with your phone. The link prompts you to sign into your Homey account, after which your Android TV app will immediately refresh and display your Homey dashboard.
This is a highly functional version of the app, with the ability to view the same devices and automations you can view from your phone. Clicking on a device pulls up familiar controls, albeit stretched out across a much larger surface area. I didn't run into any issues or encounter any additional lag when using the Android TV app to turn on my closet lights. I could adjust brightness in our dimmer, though the majority of my smart switches just show a giant on-off button.
To add new devices or create new automations, you'll still need to pull out your phone. The Android TV app can be used to control devices, but it's not intended for setting things up. Homey remains a predominantly mobile-first experience.
The Homey TV app is also available via a browser - It's identical to the experience you have on your TV
Nonetheless, my Nebula projector runs the same version of Android TV that you find on many televisions, so the software experience is the same. Simply turn on your TV, click over to the Apps tab, click on the search box, type Homey, click on the Homey for Android TV app, and select Install.
Once the app is installed, it will display a QR code for you to scan with your phone. The link prompts you to sign into your Homey account, after which your Android TV app will immediately refresh and display your Homey dashboard.
This is a highly functional version of the app, with the ability to view the same devices and automations you can view from your phone. Clicking on a device pulls up familiar controls, albeit stretched out across a much larger surface area. I didn't run into any issues or encounter any additional lag when using the Android TV app to turn on my closet lights. I could adjust brightness in our dimmer, though the majority of my smart switches just show a giant on-off button.
To add new devices or create new automations, you'll still need to pull out your phone. The Android TV app can be used to control devices, but it's not intended for setting things up. Homey remains a predominantly mobile-first experience.
The Homey TV app is also available via a browser - It's identical to the experience you have on your TV
Credit: Bertel King /How-To Geek
Technically, the Homey TV app is available on any device with a modern browser. All you have to do is navigate to Homey.tv. While this makes little sense on a desktop computer, where the more functional existing web app has long been available, it may be a better option for other niche use cases.
The web browser in Tesla vehicles is a case in point. Here, the limited functionality the Homey.tv app brings to your car's touchscreen is the kind of limited controls you may desire on the central console as you park outside your home, looking to turn on the outside light you forgot to leave on. Though you could also just create smarter automations for those porch lights instead.
The web version of the Android TV app also opens up the possibility to create your own dashboards. You can open the app on a dedicated monitor, creating yet another avenue to create your own fixed Homey control center.
Homey is the latest hub to be available on your TV
This is a big step for Homey, who can now sit alongside the larger smart home platforms in the row of icons on your TV. I personally consider Homey a more approachable alternative to Home Assistant. Yet if you aren't comfortable following the acquisition, there are still other private local hubs you can consider.
The web browser in Tesla vehicles is a case in point. Here, the limited functionality the Homey.tv app brings to your car's touchscreen is the kind of limited controls you may desire on the central console as you park outside your home, looking to turn on the outside light you forgot to leave on. Though you could also just create smarter automations for those porch lights instead.
The web version of the Android TV app also opens up the possibility to create your own dashboards. You can open the app on a dedicated monitor, creating yet another avenue to create your own fixed Homey control center.
Homey is the latest hub to be available on your TV
This is a big step for Homey, who can now sit alongside the larger smart home platforms in the row of icons on your TV. I personally consider Homey a more approachable alternative to Home Assistant. Yet if you aren't comfortable following the acquisition, there are still other private local hubs you can consider.
3 Signs Someone is Stealing Your WiFi - How to Kick Them Off
By Charlie Osborne for ZDNET
If you suspect someone may be on your WiFi network without your permission, here's how to find out-- and what to do about it.
If you suspect someone may be on your WiFi network without your permission, here's how to find out-- and what to do about it.
dem10/DigitalVision Vectors via Getty Images
Surveillance continues creeping into our daily lives. Facial recognition cameras litter the streets; we are constantly monitored online, and it's rare to attend a social event without a camera being waved in our faces.
However, the prospect of such surveillance entering our homes can be even more disturbing. Have you ever noticed an unfamiliar device connecting to your home network? Or is your bandwidth decreasing rapidly? If someone is lurking on your WiFi, that's a serious invasion of your privacy, not to mention unfair, as you are paying for a service.
If someone gains access to your WiFi, they can do more than just steal the bandwidth you're paying for; they can also endanger your privacy and security, steal your data, and potentially even tie you to someone else's illegal online activities.
Fortunately, it can be quite straightforward to identify strangers on your network and boot them out. Find out how to detect them, escort them out-- and keep them out. Look for these 3 warning signs
1. Your internet feels slow
There are many reasons your internet connection suddenly goes from fast to sluggish, or you experience unexpected drops and lags.
Legitimate reasons for internet interruptions include faulty router hardware, damage to external cables, weak signal strength, or issues with your internet service provider (ISP), such as regional blackouts. When it comes to software, using the wrong VPN or VPN server to protect your connection can also lead to severe speed drops.
However, a slow internet connection can also be caused by unwanted visitors on your network who are stealing your bandwidth. The more devices that are connected to a WiFi point, the higher the traffic demand. This is especially true if someone is streaming in high resolution, gaming online, or torrenting large files.
It can be difficult to tell the difference between legitimate reasons for your internet slowing down and latency issues caused by a freeloader. Start by checking your ISP's service status for any problems, visit downforeveryoneorjustme.com to check disruptions to online services, and check your hardware, including cables and connectors-- as loose cabling can also cause broadband issues.
2. Unknown or unrecognized devices on your network
If someone is using your WiFi without permission, they will need to connect a device such as a smartphone, PC, speaker, or smart home device.
You may also expect low speeds and high traffic loads, video buffering, and your own devices might even disconnect without warning as your network creaks under the strain if too many devices-- authorized or otherwise-- are fighting for the same bandwidth.
Another symptom may be the active traffic and connections your router shows you. For example, flashing lights on your hardware may indicate network activity when you don't expect it. However, you should check your router's manual for other reasons before assuming it is due to unknown devices on your network.
3. Router stops working, or you lose WiFi access
If your WiFi suddenly stops working, it could be a sign that someone is tampering with your setup without your permission. It may be even more suspicious if your network turns off and on at specific times, for example, when you are playing music.
To maintain access to your WiFi hotspot, someone needs to be close by-- and if you have a less-than-cordial relationship with your neighbors or someone else in your home, there's always the risk that someone is deliberately messing with your WiFi. For example, if someone has accessed your WiFi and its gateway, they can disconnect your connection at any time.
Furthermore, if the WiFi password has changed and you have been kicked out, someone has probably seized control and changed it without your permission.
However, you should keep in mind that hardware failures may be at fault rather than a miscreant. Routers fail over time, ISPs provide poor service, and even weather conditions may impact your connectivity. If there's a pattern in interrupted services, though-- for example, at a particular hour every day-- it may be deliberate.
How can someone use my WiFi without permission?
The simplest answer is often the right one, and with WiFi, it usually comes down to your password.
A weak, easy-to-guess password might be at fault, or one that has been shared without your permission. It is also possible for people to perform brute-force or dictionary attacks on some WiFi networks, running a program that tests combinations of letters, numbers, phrases, and special characters to guess the password and break in.
There's also the issue of WiFi security itself. WiFi standards include WPA, WPA2, and WPA3. You can find out your WiFi's protocol by diving into the wireless settings of your router: on MacOS, hold down the option key and click your WiFi icon; on Windows, go to settings, WiFi, and then the security tab.
The higher the standard, the more difficult it is for attackers to intrude-- but if there are poor passwords or network misconfigurations, it is far from impossible, no matter the protocol.
Outdated router firmware may also put your WiFi at risk, as it may contain vulnerabilities that can be exploited. You can check your hardware's firmware version on the router gateway to see whether it updates automatically or if you need to update it manually via the web.
How can I find suspicious devices on my network?
The easiest way to confirm your suspicion that someone is on your WiFi network without permission is to run a network scan.
The first step is to access your router's gateway via a browser. Your router manufacturer or ISP should provide you with the address you need to visit; if you are unsure, try 192.168.0.1 or 192.168.1.1. Another option is to open your smartphone's WiFi settings, tap your home WiFi hotspot, go to Settings, and choose Manage router if available-- it should take you straight to the gateway.
When you access your gateway via a browser, you may be warned that the connection isn't private, and you will need to sign in with your hub or router password. Once you're in, depending on the ISP, you may be able to see all devices listed on your network.
Alternatively, use a dedicated network scanner to find and display all devices and IP addresses, then check for anything unfamiliar. Network scanner options include Fing, Nmap, and WiFi Analyzer.
What else can I do to confirm WiFi interlopers?
How do I stop network intruders?
However, the prospect of such surveillance entering our homes can be even more disturbing. Have you ever noticed an unfamiliar device connecting to your home network? Or is your bandwidth decreasing rapidly? If someone is lurking on your WiFi, that's a serious invasion of your privacy, not to mention unfair, as you are paying for a service.
If someone gains access to your WiFi, they can do more than just steal the bandwidth you're paying for; they can also endanger your privacy and security, steal your data, and potentially even tie you to someone else's illegal online activities.
Fortunately, it can be quite straightforward to identify strangers on your network and boot them out. Find out how to detect them, escort them out-- and keep them out. Look for these 3 warning signs
1. Your internet feels slow
There are many reasons your internet connection suddenly goes from fast to sluggish, or you experience unexpected drops and lags.
Legitimate reasons for internet interruptions include faulty router hardware, damage to external cables, weak signal strength, or issues with your internet service provider (ISP), such as regional blackouts. When it comes to software, using the wrong VPN or VPN server to protect your connection can also lead to severe speed drops.
However, a slow internet connection can also be caused by unwanted visitors on your network who are stealing your bandwidth. The more devices that are connected to a WiFi point, the higher the traffic demand. This is especially true if someone is streaming in high resolution, gaming online, or torrenting large files.
It can be difficult to tell the difference between legitimate reasons for your internet slowing down and latency issues caused by a freeloader. Start by checking your ISP's service status for any problems, visit downforeveryoneorjustme.com to check disruptions to online services, and check your hardware, including cables and connectors-- as loose cabling can also cause broadband issues.
2. Unknown or unrecognized devices on your network
If someone is using your WiFi without permission, they will need to connect a device such as a smartphone, PC, speaker, or smart home device.
You may also expect low speeds and high traffic loads, video buffering, and your own devices might even disconnect without warning as your network creaks under the strain if too many devices-- authorized or otherwise-- are fighting for the same bandwidth.
Another symptom may be the active traffic and connections your router shows you. For example, flashing lights on your hardware may indicate network activity when you don't expect it. However, you should check your router's manual for other reasons before assuming it is due to unknown devices on your network.
3. Router stops working, or you lose WiFi access
If your WiFi suddenly stops working, it could be a sign that someone is tampering with your setup without your permission. It may be even more suspicious if your network turns off and on at specific times, for example, when you are playing music.
To maintain access to your WiFi hotspot, someone needs to be close by-- and if you have a less-than-cordial relationship with your neighbors or someone else in your home, there's always the risk that someone is deliberately messing with your WiFi. For example, if someone has accessed your WiFi and its gateway, they can disconnect your connection at any time.
Furthermore, if the WiFi password has changed and you have been kicked out, someone has probably seized control and changed it without your permission.
However, you should keep in mind that hardware failures may be at fault rather than a miscreant. Routers fail over time, ISPs provide poor service, and even weather conditions may impact your connectivity. If there's a pattern in interrupted services, though-- for example, at a particular hour every day-- it may be deliberate.
How can someone use my WiFi without permission?
The simplest answer is often the right one, and with WiFi, it usually comes down to your password.
A weak, easy-to-guess password might be at fault, or one that has been shared without your permission. It is also possible for people to perform brute-force or dictionary attacks on some WiFi networks, running a program that tests combinations of letters, numbers, phrases, and special characters to guess the password and break in.
There's also the issue of WiFi security itself. WiFi standards include WPA, WPA2, and WPA3. You can find out your WiFi's protocol by diving into the wireless settings of your router: on MacOS, hold down the option key and click your WiFi icon; on Windows, go to settings, WiFi, and then the security tab.
The higher the standard, the more difficult it is for attackers to intrude-- but if there are poor passwords or network misconfigurations, it is far from impossible, no matter the protocol.
Outdated router firmware may also put your WiFi at risk, as it may contain vulnerabilities that can be exploited. You can check your hardware's firmware version on the router gateway to see whether it updates automatically or if you need to update it manually via the web.
How can I find suspicious devices on my network?
The easiest way to confirm your suspicion that someone is on your WiFi network without permission is to run a network scan.
The first step is to access your router's gateway via a browser. Your router manufacturer or ISP should provide you with the address you need to visit; if you are unsure, try 192.168.0.1 or 192.168.1.1. Another option is to open your smartphone's WiFi settings, tap your home WiFi hotspot, go to Settings, and choose Manage router if available-- it should take you straight to the gateway.
When you access your gateway via a browser, you may be warned that the connection isn't private, and you will need to sign in with your hub or router password. Once you're in, depending on the ISP, you may be able to see all devices listed on your network.
Alternatively, use a dedicated network scanner to find and display all devices and IP addresses, then check for anything unfamiliar. Network scanner options include Fing, Nmap, and WiFi Analyzer.
What else can I do to confirm WiFi interlopers?
- Run a speed check: If you can, run it at different times of day to see if you spot any patterns. For example, if you have a low starting speed and someone is streaming Netflix in 4K after they've come home from work, you will probably notice an immediate drop in service-- or an inability to load anything entirely.
- Check connection logs: Those comfortable with technology can generate logs using tools such as Nmap and Fing, dedicated network and WiFi mapping tools. These could give you an idea of what is connecting, for how long, and when.
- Consider your environment: For example, if a neighbor is blaring their Spotify playlist, and the music suddenly stops when you disconnect your router, you may have found the cause of your intermittent WiFi service.
How do I stop network intruders?
- Change your password: If someone has been quietly using your WiFi by guessing your password, changing your password is the quickest and easiest way to kick them out. You can change your password by accessing your router's gateway, as described above.
- Choose a better password: Don't rely on default passwords to protect your WiFi, or something that's easy to remember or share with your guests. Create something complex and, while it is a pain, take the time to reconnect all your devices to your WiFi, as changing your password means devices logged in with your old credentials will be removed from the network. While we don't recommend writing down the passwords for your important online accounts, for residential WiFi, there's little risk in writing them down and keeping them in a safe place at home.
- Check your admin password: You should also check your administrator password in your router/ISP gateway. If they are default options, such as admin/admin, change them to something stronger and store them somewhere safe.
- Check your WiFi security and upgrade if necessary: If you are running on an obsolete or legacy protocol, such as WPA, it simply won't be secure, and it might be easy to break into, no matter what you do. In this case, you'll need to upgrade the protocol. You can usually do this yourself by visiting your router's gateway and changing its encryption standard under security or wireless settings. You may need to set a new password and reconnect your devices afterward. If you can, WPA3 is best.
- Consider setting up a guest network: If you sometimes need to share your WiFi, set up a guest network. This creates a separate access point away from your main network and devices, thereby giving you far more control over who is connected, for how long, and how much bandwidth they can use.
This Silent Android Feature Scans Your Photos for 'Sensitive Content' - How to Uninstall It
By Elyse Betters Picaro for ZDNET
Google didn't say much about Android System SafetyCore before it suddenly appeared on phones. Fortunately, you can disable it.
Google didn't say much about Android System SafetyCore before it suddenly appeared on phones. Fortunately, you can disable it.
Elyse Betters Picaro
Last year, Google rolled out a system service to Android phones and tablets called Android System SafetyCore. It came with no new icon on the home screen, no warning, and no "Do you want this?" screen. It just appeared one night, running in the background.
Google describes SafetyCore as an "Android system component that provides common infrastructure that apps can use to protect users from unwanted content." That vague description left many people, including me, confused. So, what's it look like in practice?
Sensitive Content Warnings in Google Messages. Powered by SafetyCore, Google said that, when enabled, Messages can detect and blur images in your chats that may contain nudity, then show a warning before you view or even share them yourself. Google stressed that it processes all warnings on your device, and that your warnings and images are "not shared with Google."
SafetyCore isn't limited to nudity detection. Google said it provides "privacy-preserving, on-device support" for Android safety features, and could be used to help warn users about a range of "unwanted content," such as spam, scams, and malware.
For those wondering, security researchers have confirmed that SafetyCore runs locally. The team behind GrapheneOS, an AOSP-based, security-focused distro, verified on X that SafetyCore isn't reporting things to "Google or anyone else." Google also reminded ZDNET that users can control SafetyCore and said it only works "when an app requests it through an optionally enabled feature."
Still, because Google didn't clearly warn Android users that SafetyCore was coming, the rollout raised concerns about privacy and consent. As one Play Store user wrote in 2025, "This is spyware. Installed without consent or notifying users." One Redditor likened it to a "virus installed through a backdoor by Google," and said it's the "complete opposite of safety, transparency, and privacy."
Adding to the frustration, SafetyCore doesn't have an icon or appear in your app list. So, to find it, you have to dig through settings.
How to remove SafetyCore from Android
What you'll need: An Android phone or tablet running Android 9 or later. If you've bought a new Android device or installed a system update anytime since 2024, you're likely running SafetyCore. Google recommends keeping it installed so you can use safety features that depend on it. Also, as some users have noted, because SafetyCore is a system service, it may return with a future update.
1. Open Settings
Start by opening the Settings app on your Android device.
Google describes SafetyCore as an "Android system component that provides common infrastructure that apps can use to protect users from unwanted content." That vague description left many people, including me, confused. So, what's it look like in practice?
Sensitive Content Warnings in Google Messages. Powered by SafetyCore, Google said that, when enabled, Messages can detect and blur images in your chats that may contain nudity, then show a warning before you view or even share them yourself. Google stressed that it processes all warnings on your device, and that your warnings and images are "not shared with Google."
SafetyCore isn't limited to nudity detection. Google said it provides "privacy-preserving, on-device support" for Android safety features, and could be used to help warn users about a range of "unwanted content," such as spam, scams, and malware.
For those wondering, security researchers have confirmed that SafetyCore runs locally. The team behind GrapheneOS, an AOSP-based, security-focused distro, verified on X that SafetyCore isn't reporting things to "Google or anyone else." Google also reminded ZDNET that users can control SafetyCore and said it only works "when an app requests it through an optionally enabled feature."
Still, because Google didn't clearly warn Android users that SafetyCore was coming, the rollout raised concerns about privacy and consent. As one Play Store user wrote in 2025, "This is spyware. Installed without consent or notifying users." One Redditor likened it to a "virus installed through a backdoor by Google," and said it's the "complete opposite of safety, transparency, and privacy."
Adding to the frustration, SafetyCore doesn't have an icon or appear in your app list. So, to find it, you have to dig through settings.
How to remove SafetyCore from Android
What you'll need: An Android phone or tablet running Android 9 or later. If you've bought a new Android device or installed a system update anytime since 2024, you're likely running SafetyCore. Google recommends keeping it installed so you can use safety features that depend on it. Also, as some users have noted, because SafetyCore is a system service, it may return with a future update.
1. Open Settings
Start by opening the Settings app on your Android device.
Elyse Betters Picaro / ZDNET
2. Go to Apps
Scroll down and tap Apps. On some Android devices, this menu may be called Apps and notifications.
Elyse Betters Picaro / ZDNET
3. Show system apps
Tap See all apps. Then open the 3-dot menu in the top-right corner and choose Show system.
Elyse Betters Picaro / ZDNET
4. Find Android System SafetyCore
Scroll through the list or use the search button to find SafetyCore. Tap Android System SafetyCore to open its app info page.
Elyse Betters Picaro / ZDNET
5. Uninstall SafetyCore
Tap Uninstall. On my Pixel phone, Android showed a confirmation prompt asking if I wanted to uninstall Android System SafetyCore. If that happens, make sure to tap Uninstall again to confirm and finally remove it.
Tip: If SafetyCore returns after a system update or Google Play update, repeat the steps above.
Elyse Betters Picaro / ZDNET
6. Optional: Disable Sensitive Content Warnings
Let's say you want to keep SafetyCore running on your phone because an app might use it in the future in a way you could find useful, such as warning about scams. But for now, you do not want it working in Google Messages and analyzing the photos in your chat. In that case, make sure Sensitive Content Warnings is disabled.
Open Google Messages, tap your profile picture, and go to Messages settings > Protection and safety > Manage sensitive content warnings. This opens a page where you can turn the feature off or on.
Note: Unsupervised teenagers-- ages 13 to 17-- and adults can manage the setting themselves, but supervised child accounts need a parent to do it through Family Link.
Also, in earlier versions of this article, I suggested reviewing SafetyCore permissions if you planned to keep it installed on your device. However, as of June 2026, I no longer see that option on my Pixel phone. The app's info page in settings just says "No permissions requested," and the permissions row is completely grayed out.
Elyse Betters Picaro / ZDNET
FAQs
Why is Android's SafetyCore so troubling?
SafetyCore is troubling because of how it arrived.
Google said the service performs content classification on your device, does not send identifiable data or content to Google servers, and only runs when an app requests it through an optionally enabled feature. That's the good part. The bad part is the rollout. A silent system component that handles sensitive-content classification is something Google should have clearly explained beforehand.
To be fair, Apple offers a similar feature called Communication Safety on the iPhone. But it publicly explained the feature and gave users a very easy way to enable or disable it in their Screen Time settings. Apple got it right. Google didn't.
In response to this article, a Google spokesperson told ZDNET:
"By default, Google System services automatically update your device with security, bug fixes, and new features. Some updates are delivered via system services in separate Android packages. This maintains privacy, security, and data isolation following the principle of least privilege because permissions are not shared with other functionality."
Can I uninstall SafetyCore without breaking my phone?
Yes. I did, and my Pixel phone still works just fine. That said, SafetyCore is a system service, so removing it may affect Android safety features that rely on it, including Sensitive Content Warnings in Google Messages. Google recommends keeping it installed.
Will SafetyCore come back after I uninstall it?
It might. Because SafetyCore is a Google system service, it may return through a system update or a Google Play update. If you remove it and later see it again in your system processes, that is likely why.
What are Sensitive Content Warnings?
Sensitive Content Warnings in Google Messages uses SafetyCore's technology to work. When enabled, the safety feature can detect images that may contain nudity, blur them, and show a warning before you receive, send, or forward them.
Here's how Google explained the warnings:
"Sensitive Content Warnings is an optional feature that blurs images that may contain nudity before viewing, and then prompts with a 'speed bump' that contains help-finding resources and options, including to view the content. When the feature is enabled, and an image that may contain nudity is about to be sent or forwarded, it also provides a speed bump to remind users of the risks of sending nude imagery and preventing accidental shares. All of this happens on-device to protect your privacy and keep end-to-end encrypted message content private to only sender and recipient. Sensitive Content Warnings doesn't allow Google access to the contents of your images, nor does Google know that nudity may have been detected. This feature is opt-in for adults, managed via Android Settings, and is opt-out for users under 18 years of age."
The TL;DR is that Google said detection and blurring happen on your device, and images, results, and warnings are not shared with Google. Adults can also enable or disable Sensitive Content Warnings in Google Messages settings at any time.
The Router Mistake Almost Everyone Makes Even Though it's a Security Risk
By Monica J. White for How-To Geek
Credit: Bertel King / How-To Geek
If I had a penny for every person who simply set up their router and never thought about opening the settings again, I'd have a whole bunch of pennies. And that's just the people I know.
Ignoring your router doesn't feel like a big deal. Most of us aren't the prime targets for cybercriminals, so we're lulled into a false sense of security. Wrong: ignored routers are exactly the thing attackers like to go for, and I can bet yours could use tighter security settings.
The real mistake is never logging back into your router - and it's the perfect invitation for cybercriminals
If you've largely ignored your router since it came into your home, trust me, you're far from alone here.
The problem with routers is that they get treated more like appliances than computers. No one tweaks their fridge settings every quarter, so why would you do the same with your router? The thing is that your router has a lot more access to a lot more critical information than your fridge ever will-- even if it's smart-- so it deserves to be given more respect than that.
Your router is running software, managing permissions, and deciding which devices get access. But it does so with a lot less fanfare than other devices. Your phone will nag you endlessly until you finally install that update, as will your Windows-based PC, but your router is very forgettable.
It shouldn't be.
Your router is the front door to everything else on your network. Once it's badly configured, outdated, or protected by a weak admin password that's never been changed, your entire network may be at risk.
Firmware updates are the first thing to check - Security fixes don't install themselves, unfortunately
Ignoring your router doesn't feel like a big deal. Most of us aren't the prime targets for cybercriminals, so we're lulled into a false sense of security. Wrong: ignored routers are exactly the thing attackers like to go for, and I can bet yours could use tighter security settings.
The real mistake is never logging back into your router - and it's the perfect invitation for cybercriminals
If you've largely ignored your router since it came into your home, trust me, you're far from alone here.
The problem with routers is that they get treated more like appliances than computers. No one tweaks their fridge settings every quarter, so why would you do the same with your router? The thing is that your router has a lot more access to a lot more critical information than your fridge ever will-- even if it's smart-- so it deserves to be given more respect than that.
Your router is running software, managing permissions, and deciding which devices get access. But it does so with a lot less fanfare than other devices. Your phone will nag you endlessly until you finally install that update, as will your Windows-based PC, but your router is very forgettable.
It shouldn't be.
Your router is the front door to everything else on your network. Once it's badly configured, outdated, or protected by a weak admin password that's never been changed, your entire network may be at risk.
Firmware updates are the first thing to check - Security fixes don't install themselves, unfortunately
Credit: Nick Lewis / How-To Geek
Firmware updates aren't the most exciting thing in the world, but they're also where I recommend starting if you've not been giving your router much attention lately. Your router's firmware is the software that keeps the whole thing running, and just like any other software, it can have bugs or vulnerabilities that you don't want anywhere near your home network. Router updates are easy to miss, though, especially if they're not installed automatically.
This is also where owning your own router becomes a bit easier than renting it from your ISP. Many modern models give you a proper app, a clear update page, and more control over what happens.
One way or another, log into your router's settings and look for something labeled Firmware Update, Software Update, System, or Administration. If automatic updates are available, go ahead and turn them on.
Your router password and WiFi password both matter - Each for its own reasons
This is also where owning your own router becomes a bit easier than renting it from your ISP. Many modern models give you a proper app, a clear update page, and more control over what happens.
One way or another, log into your router's settings and look for something labeled Firmware Update, Software Update, System, or Administration. If automatic updates are available, go ahead and turn them on.
Your router password and WiFi password both matter - Each for its own reasons
Goran Damnjanovic / How-To Geek
One of the easiest router mistakes is thinking that the router password is the only password you should be changing.
There are actually 2-- your router's WiFi password and your router's admin password, which protects the settings page.
Both are important, but in different ways; if the admin password is still the default one, someone with access to your network may also be able to access the settings that control it. Meanwhile, your WiFi password is the one that gets shared around and forgotten, so you shouldn't just leave it unchanged forever.
Check your connected device list - Your network has more freeloaders than you remember
geeksforgeeks.org
While you're already fiddling with your router's admin page, this is the perfect time to check what's actually connected to it. Most routers have a page called something like Connected Devices, Client List, Attached Devices, or DHCP Clients. This is where you can see every device connected to your network.
When you look through this list, a lot of the names may be confusing. Don't be surprised to find your phone is called something that seems like the brand name followed by some gibberish. Trace these devices back to the source, and remove the ones that no longer need access.
Give your router some TLC
If your ISP installed your connection for you, you may have just left your router as-is and ignored it since then. But it's never too late to correct that mistake.
Don't take your router/WiFi settings for granted; optimize them. Your network will thank you.
I Learned which Ports to Use on My TV and AV Receiver, and it Fixed my Setup
By Brady Snyder for Make Use Of
Credit: Brady Snyder / MakeUseOf
HDMI is the closest thing we have to a universal video connector in 2026-- it's used to connect TVs and A/V receivers to various input sources and output devices. However, if you're only using the HDMI ports on your TV or A/V receiver, you might be missing out. Home theater equipment features a collection of digital and analog inputs and outputs all tailored to specific use cases. HDMI might be the best connection protocol for one kind of device, but it could be poorly suited for another.
Unfortunately, many user manuals for TVs or receivers lack the proper guidance about which ports and connection protocols to use for each situation. They might name and identify the ports on the back of your gear, but they probably won't tell you how to use them. I recently upgraded from a basic audio amplifier and receiver to the Dolby Atmos-compatible JBL MA710, and I've been diving into all its ports and features. These are the seven ports and connector types you'll find on many TVs and receivers, and how to make the most of every one.
HDMI: 8K, 4K, ARC, eARC - your A/V receiver probably has different HDMI port types
Unfortunately, many user manuals for TVs or receivers lack the proper guidance about which ports and connection protocols to use for each situation. They might name and identify the ports on the back of your gear, but they probably won't tell you how to use them. I recently upgraded from a basic audio amplifier and receiver to the Dolby Atmos-compatible JBL MA710, and I've been diving into all its ports and features. These are the seven ports and connector types you'll find on many TVs and receivers, and how to make the most of every one.
HDMI: 8K, 4K, ARC, eARC - your A/V receiver probably has different HDMI port types
Credit: Brady Snyder / MakeUseOf
HDMI is the most common port found on modern home theater gear, and your TV or receiver probably has more than one of them. Many people make the mistake of assuming all the HDMI ports on their video hardware are equal. Your TV or receiver might have HDMI ports with support for different resolutions, like 8K or 4K. These supported resolutions hint at the ports' HDMI versions. For example, the three 8K ports on my receiver are HDMI 2.1 and the three 4K ports are HDMI 2.0.
If you're using an A/V receiver, there will be separate HDMI ports for video inputs and outputs. You'll see multiple HDMI inputs for connecting video sources, like set-top boxes, streaming boxes, or Blu-ray players, and at least one output for hooking up your TV. This output may have support for the ARC-- Audio Return Channel-- or eARC-- enhanced Audio Return Channel. Using the ARC or eARC ports on your TV and A/V receiver is crucial to allow your television to send audio back to your receiver over a single HDMI cable.
RCA - Great for connecting analog audio sources and subwoofers
If you're using an A/V receiver, there will be separate HDMI ports for video inputs and outputs. You'll see multiple HDMI inputs for connecting video sources, like set-top boxes, streaming boxes, or Blu-ray players, and at least one output for hooking up your TV. This output may have support for the ARC-- Audio Return Channel-- or eARC-- enhanced Audio Return Channel. Using the ARC or eARC ports on your TV and A/V receiver is crucial to allow your television to send audio back to your receiver over a single HDMI cable.
RCA - Great for connecting analog audio sources and subwoofers
Credit: Brady Snyder / MakeUseOf
Your TV or receiver might have RCA jacks, and they serve a variety of different purposes. Older TVs and game consoles use RCA inputs and outputs for both audio and video. The red RCA plug is for the right audio channel, while the left audio channel can be a white or black plug. A third, yellow RCA plug handles composite video transmission-- but this is limited to standard-definition picture quality. RCA jacks often deliver analog audio and video, although coaxial RCA is the exception that we'll cover later.
RCA inputs are ideal for connecting analog audio sources to your A/V receiver. For example, a turntable or tape player's analog audio output can be sent straight to your receiver without being converted to digital in the process, assuming your receiver is set to Pure Direct mode. You might also see a separate pair of RCA jacks labeled Phono. This is for connecting a turntable without an active preamplifier. In this mode, your receiver will handle the task of amplifying the weak audio signals relayed by your turntable's cartridge.
You could also see separate RCA jacks labeled Zone 2. These are commonly found on midrange and higher end A/V receivers, and they allow you to hook up a pair of powered speakers in another room. Unlike A/B speakers, Zone 2 allows you to play the same or different audio sources on each speaker setup simultaneously. This is ideal for watching movies in surround sound at the main listening station while streaming Hi-Fi music with Tidal in a separate room, for instance.
A single RCA jack may also be used to connect a powered subwoofer to your A/V receiver.
Binding posts - Versatile connectors for hooking up your wired speakers
RCA inputs are ideal for connecting analog audio sources to your A/V receiver. For example, a turntable or tape player's analog audio output can be sent straight to your receiver without being converted to digital in the process, assuming your receiver is set to Pure Direct mode. You might also see a separate pair of RCA jacks labeled Phono. This is for connecting a turntable without an active preamplifier. In this mode, your receiver will handle the task of amplifying the weak audio signals relayed by your turntable's cartridge.
You could also see separate RCA jacks labeled Zone 2. These are commonly found on midrange and higher end A/V receivers, and they allow you to hook up a pair of powered speakers in another room. Unlike A/B speakers, Zone 2 allows you to play the same or different audio sources on each speaker setup simultaneously. This is ideal for watching movies in surround sound at the main listening station while streaming Hi-Fi music with Tidal in a separate room, for instance.
A single RCA jack may also be used to connect a powered subwoofer to your A/V receiver.
Binding posts - Versatile connectors for hooking up your wired speakers
Credit: Brady Snyder / Make Use Of
The primary job of an A/V receiver is to connect inputs to their respective audio and video outputs, including passive speakers. These speakers require amplification and connect using copper speaker wire. A robust surround sound system needs a lot of speaker wire, and the receiver manages all of it.
There are 2 main ways A/V receivers connect to passive speakers: spring-clip terminals and binding posts. Five-way binding posts support 5 different ways of accepting speaker wire connections, including wrapping wire around the post, inserting wire through the post, or using banana plugs, spade lugs, or pin connectors.
Optical audio - For fiber-optic connections that won't suffer from electromagnetic interference
Credit: Brady Snyder / MakeUseOf
TVs and A/V receivers often support optical audio inputs or outputs, otherwise known as TOSLINK. There are many uses for TOSLINK, but a big one is to send return audio from a TV to a soundbar when one or both devices lack ARC or eARC support. The other benefit to using optical audio is that it is safe from electromagnetic interference (EMI) and radio frequency interference (RFI). It's a way of stopping speaker hums and hisses in their tracks.
Compared to analog inputs, optical audio adds support for compressed surround sound audio formats, like Dolby Digital. However, it lacks the bandwidth required for lossless Dolby Atmos and similar audio formats.
Coaxial - Higher-bandwidth, wired audio inputs for older devices and formats
Compared to analog inputs, optical audio adds support for compressed surround sound audio formats, like Dolby Digital. However, it lacks the bandwidth required for lossless Dolby Atmos and similar audio formats.
Coaxial - Higher-bandwidth, wired audio inputs for older devices and formats
Credit: Brady Snyder / MakeUseOf
RCA jacks are usually analog, unless they're labeled as coaxial-- or COAX. This audio connector uses a single RCA jack and cable, unlike analog RCA, which requires separate plugs for left and right audio channels. It uses the Sony/Phillips Digital Interface-- S/PDIF-- to send audio data using electrical signals.
Although it offers more bandwidth than legacy ports and adds support for surround sound, it doesn't support lossless formats such as Dolby Atmos. Unlike TOSLINK, coaxial audio cables aren't immune from EMI and RFI.
Ethernet - Used for stable wireless streaming and snappy app control
Although it offers more bandwidth than legacy ports and adds support for surround sound, it doesn't support lossless formats such as Dolby Atmos. Unlike TOSLINK, coaxial audio cables aren't immune from EMI and RFI.
Ethernet - Used for stable wireless streaming and snappy app control
Credit: Brady Snyder / MakeUseOf
Vs and A/V receivers might include Ethernet ports, which provide a faster and more stable connection than WiFi. You may not want to connect your home theater equipment to the internet at all, especially if you're worried about your TV phoning home to the manufacturer using Automatic Content Recognition (ACR). However, a network connection can enable remote app control and wireless casting through protocols like AirPlay or Google Cast. If you plan to use these features, wiring your TV or A/V receiver over Ethernet may be worthwhile.
USB - Used for digital music playback, installing updates, diagnostics, and more
USB - Used for digital music playback, installing updates, diagnostics, and more
Credit: Brady Snyder / MakeUseOf
Finally, there's probably a USB port on the back of your TV or A/V receiver. This is the easiest port to write off and ignore, thinking it's only for diagnostics or updates. While a USB port may be used for these things, it can do much more. Hook up a phone or USB stick up to a compatible TV or receiver, and you can play back digital audio files. Certain TVs even let you display photo albums or record live TV using their USB port.
Why you should use all the ports on your AV receiver
The best home theater equipment ties your entire setup together. My JBL MA710 receiver works just as well with my turntable as it does with my Blu-ray player or Apple TV 4K. However, you only get the perks of your TV or receiver's versatility while using the right port for the job. For example, optical audio cables' support for pure digital bitstream is preferable for digital sources, although RCA cables' analog audio support is better for physical media sources. You don't have to use them all, but using the best one for your input or output device matters.
Why you should use all the ports on your AV receiver
The best home theater equipment ties your entire setup together. My JBL MA710 receiver works just as well with my turntable as it does with my Blu-ray player or Apple TV 4K. However, you only get the perks of your TV or receiver's versatility while using the right port for the job. For example, optical audio cables' support for pure digital bitstream is preferable for digital sources, although RCA cables' analog audio support is better for physical media sources. You don't have to use them all, but using the best one for your input or output device matters.
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