security meet culture

Android's Private DNS Feature Solves a Problem Most People Don't Know They Have

By Bertel King for How-To Geek

If you care about protecting your privacy online, you've probably seen an ad for VPNs. You likely also know to seek out private messaging apps like Signal and Proton Mail. But there's another change you need to make in order to protect your phone's web traffic from prying eyes, and it's a relatively simple fix.

Your DNS isn't private by default - It's time to change this

Credit: Bertel King / How-To Geek

DNS stands for Domain Name System. It's what enables you to get somewhere by typing a website name rather than having to enter an exact numerical IP address. Without DNS, typing howtogeek.com would only yield an error message.

Out of the box, your phone's DNS activity is quite likely neither encrypted nor private. Your internet service provider-- such as Comcast or Verizon-- or carrier-- Verizon, T-Mobile, or AT&T-- can see every site you visit. If you're on a public WiFi network, you run the risk of a snoop taking a peek at your activities as well.

Third-party DNS providers like Cloudflare, NextDNS, and Mullvad offer a way to browse the web while hiding your domain name requests from your ISP. It does so by encrypting your DNS activity, just as encrypted email masks the content of your messages and HTTPS hides what data a website is transmitting to your device.

How to enable Private DNS on Android - It only takes a couple taps

How-To Geek

To keep your phone from leaking your domain name requests, you'll need to dive into your network settings. You can do so by swiping down from the top of the screen and tapping on the gear icon that opens your phone's Settings app. Then navigate to Network & internet. Towards the bottom, you'll see an option for Private DNS.

Tapping here provides you with 3 options: Off, Automatic, and Private DNS provider hostname. You'll likely see "Automatic" enabled by default, which means your phone will use DNS encryption when it detects the option available. This leaves you at the whim of your ISP or carrier, who may prefer to track and monetize your browsing activity rather than protect it. "Off" disables DNS encryption entirely.

For a continuous private connection, you'll want to select a private DNS provider hostname, and you will then need to enter an address in order for the changes to take effect. If you don't yet know one to put here, you can find several options in our list of the best DNS servers for secure browsing. Just keep in mind that you will need to enter a hostname into this field, not an IP address. In other words, you'll need to enter the private web address your provider offers, rather than a series of numbers and periods.

Once you've entered your selection, you can confirm whether things are working using the Safer.com Browser Privacy Test.

That said, there are circumstances where this fix may not be the one you're looking for, and you'd actually be better off leaving the default setting in place.

Private DNS does not fully mask your web activity - There is still a lot your ISP can learn about you

Credit: Bertel King / How-To Geek

DNS encryption, whether via DNS over HTTPS-- DoH) or DNS over TLS (DoT-- doesn't fully prevent your ISP from seeing what you do online. While you're shielding your DNS lookups, all the traffic that follows still happens over their connection. This means the ISP can see the destination IP address you connected to and how much data was transmitted. The company can also see how much time you spend on the site before switching to another.

You'll need to take other steps if you sincerely wish to prevent others from gaining insights into what you do online. The more technically minded who are interested in self-hosting can rent a cheap VPS, install Wireguard, and tell all of their devices to use this VPS as a full-tunnel VPN endpoint. Those of us who aren't interested in that whole song and dance can look into commercial VPN options. They often provide mobile apps that make encrypting a connection as simple as possible, often requiring only a single tap and granting some permissions.

Just know that if you opt to use a commercial VPN, such as Private Internet Access or ProtonVPN, they tend to offer their own encrypted DNS. In that situation, you'll want to leave the private DNS setting on your phone set to “Automatic” and trust the VPN connection to shield your DNS lookups instead.

There's no way to go online without leaking at least a little

Private DNS encrypts your DNS lookups, but it doesn't mask the resulting web traffic. VPNs may go a step further, but your ISP can tell you're using one, and you must trust your VPN provider not to abuse your trust. It's even possible to tell someone is using TOR, even if that may be all you're able to tell. In other words, don't start browsing the web with the false assumption that everything you do is private, but by reducing your online footprint as best you can, you reduce how much information can be monetized or used for online attacks.

Samsung Hides a WiFi Analyzer Inside One UI, and it Found My Worst WiFi Problem

By Sagar Naresh for Make Use Of

I've been told countless times that the best way to keep tabs on my home network is with an app, like WiFi Analyzer. It's undoubtedly very useful, and I've used it at home and in the office to help figure out why we have network congestion.

But it turns out I didn't need a 3rd-party app, because hidden away on my Samsung is a WiFi analysis tool that I didn't even know about, buried deep in a menu almost nobody opens. Connectivity Labs has been there all along, giving in-depth WiFi analytics, and best of all, it's totally free.

Connectivity Labs is buried deep in the menus - Samsung actually never mentions this in any onboarding screen

Make Use Of

When you open the WiFi menu from the Quick Settings panel or from the Settings screen, you will see a basic set of options to turn WiFi on or off. It shows you a list of networks, a QR scanner, and a 3-dot menu that includes WiFi Direct, Intelligent WiFi, and advanced settings. However, when you unlock the hidden menu, you will see a new option called Connectivity Labs in the 3-dot menu icon that is a different thing altogether.

Intelligent WiFi has a deeper set of tools that Samsung never mentions anywhere. I found a video dating back to 2023 about Intelligent WiFi, but it only popped up when I started searching for it, and it doesn't mention Connectivity Labs. If someone doesn't know anything about Intelligent WiFi, then they might never be able to take advantage of all the settings it has to offer.

Here is how you unlock the Intelligent WiFi menu on your Samsung phone:

• Open the Settings menu on your phone.
• Tap on Connections, then select WiFi.
• Tap the 3-dot-menu icon in the top-right corner.
• Select Intelligent WiFi.

But things don't end here. Intelligent WiFi lets you control things like automatically switching between WiFi and mobile data. Most people would stop right here. However, you shouldn't. You need to do a few more taps to unlock Connectivity Labs.

• Scroll down to the bottom of Intelligent WiFi.
• Tap on the version number multiple times until you see a countdown pop-up.
• A brand new Connectivity Labs option will appear underneath.

It is the same trick you use to unlock Developer Options inside Android's software version menu. The interesting part is that Connectivity Labs has been there since One UI 6 and still works with the newer builds.

It shows you numbers that your WiFi icon never shows - RSSI, band, and channel data that you can actually use

Make Use Of

Once Connectivity Labs is unlocked, you get access to a pile of stats your phone has been tracking behind the scenes all along, including connection uptime, saved network counts, which WiFi standard you are actually running on, and a proper signal-mapping tool called Home WiFi Inspection.

The scan reports your signal in RSSI, which just measures how strongly your phone can hear the router. It shows as a negative number, and the rule is simple: closer to zero is better. According to Ruijie Networks' breakdown of RSSI, anything between -30 dBm and -67 dBm counts as a solid connection, while readings that go well past -70 dBm are problematic, and this is where video calls start freezing and pages stop loading. You don't need to memorize any of that because the tool color-codes it for easy understanding.

Below the signal map, Connectivity Labs also shows which WiFi band and standard you have been using. This comes in handy if you just paid extra for a WiFi 6E or WiFi 7 router and want proof your phone is actually taking advantage of it, instead of using an older band in certain rooms.

When I took matters into my own hands and inspected my WiFi router signal, my signal cratered well past the point where a stable video call is realistic, and interestingly, it was not my ISP's fault at all; it was distance and a wall doing exactly what distance and walls do to a 5GHz signal.

I used Samsung's built-in WiFi scanner to fix my WiFi - Zero new hardware required

Credit: Chris Hachey / MakeUseOf

With Connectivity Labs, my guessing game about how to fix my WiFi speed stopped. Here is what I did after the scan results.

• Moved the router about 6 feet closer to the center room instead of the back corner.
• Switched my office devices to prefer the 2.4GHz band for that one room, since it travels through walls better than 5GHz.
• Checked for channel congestion and chose a quieter one.
• I re-ran the Home WiFi Inspection scan to confirm the fix worked, instead of just assuming it did.

That last step matters more than people think. If you are the type who has considered a mesh system instead, it is worth running a proper mesh test first, so you are not throwing hardware at a problem a $0 router move could have easily fixed.

Connectivity Labs has more tricks up its sleeves

While the dead-zone hunt is the headline feature, I ended up poking around the rest of the menu, and a couple of other toggles are worth knowing about. For instance, the Switch to mobile data faster does what it says. Notably, your phone gives up on a struggling WiFi connection sooner and falls back to mobile data instead of clinging to a network that is technically "connected" but practically useless. Then there is Nearby WiFi information that shows you details about public networks around you before you connect, which is a small but genuinely useful thing to have when you're hopping between airport lounges or coffee shops on a work trip.

Samsung clearly built Connectivity Labs to debug connection issues, but never bothered to tell the rest of us it existed. If your WiFi has ever felt inconsistent in one specific room, it is worth the seven taps to find out what the actual problem is.

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How to See and Delete What ChatGPT Remembers About You

By Kim Komando

ChatGPT keeps a running profile of you, and the Memory Summary may not show everything it remembers from past chats. Here's how to read and clean it up.

ChatGPT/Kim Komando

What's new: OpenAI's newer memory system continually updates a hodgepodge of the stuff it thinks is most useful. Spoiler: It's not always useful. A Memory Summary gets you a high-level view of that information, but it might not have everything ChatGPT remembers and uses from your chats.

Left alone, it becomes a junk drawer. Memory audits suggest a third to half of what's stored is stale: the project you finished, the city you moved out of, the food preference you mentioned once at 11 p.m. 

There's a rough 24,000-word ceiling on memory, so old entries crowd out useful ones, and your answers get worse without you knowing why.

The 60-second setup

Read the profile first. Open any chat, and try this prompt: 

List everything you remember about me, including anything you inferred rather than something I told you directly. Put it in a table with 3 columns: the memory, whether I said it or you guessed it, and roughly when it came up. Then tell me which entries are probably out of date.

Read the whole list, including anything labeled as inferred or user insights. Once you can see which lines are guesses, deleting gets easy. Note what's wrong or expired before you touch anything

Clean it up on web: Click your profile icon > Settings > Personalization > Memory > Scroll the list and delete outdated entries one by one.

Clean it up on mobile: Tap the menu icon > Settings > Personalization > Memory > Swipe left on any entry to delete it.

Menu names shift between app versions. If Personalization isn't where you expect, check OpenAI's memory help page rather than hunting blind.

The power move for a full reset

Summarize every memory you hold about me into one short list of the 10 facts that actually improve your answers. Show me the list. After I approve it, forget everything else and save only those 10.

The catch

The full picture, including inferred context, is a Plus and Pro thing. Free accounts can see and delete saved memories but not the assumptions built from chat history. Deleting a memory removes it from your profile, and OpenAI says it drops out of future responses, but it may still exist in data already collected, so treat delete as forget, not erase. 

One more thing: For anything you don't want remembered at all, start a Temporary Chat using the dotted icon. Those skip memory completely. Medical questions, salary math, the ugly stuff. These chats may be kept for up to 30 days for safety.

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These are The First 4 Android Settings I Change After a Factory Reset

By Sanya Shah for How-To Geek

Credit: Goran Damnjanovic / How-To Geek

Have you ever noticed that the factory reset on any phone does only half the job? Yes, it's true. So, I never immediately start downloading my apps or restoring everything from my backup once it boots up. Instead, I take a few minutes to go through the settings and make my phone feel like mine again. After all, a factory reset is supposed to give you a fresh phone; why bring back all the clutter and defaults you were trying to get rid of in the first place?

Trust me, make these changes the next time you reset your Android phone, and your freshly reset phone will feel less "factory" and a lot more yours.

My first move: ditch buttons - Now I don't tap, I swipe

First things first, before I start changing any other settings on my phone, I always change the way I move around it. I've never been a fan of the 3-button navigation bar, especially when I can swipe my way through Android instead. So the first setting I change after a factory reset is gesture navigation.

With gesture navigation enabled, I can simply swipe up from the bottom of the screen to go Home instead of moving my thumb to find the Home button, then swipe up and hold to see my recent apps. When I'm reading my own article, I swipe inward from either edge of the screen to go back to the page I was on before. This comes in handy, especially when I'm holding my phone in one hand. Mastering the bottom-edge swipe is also useful for quickly jumping between recent apps when I'm multitasking. Once these gestures become muscle memory, stretching my thumb down to reach for a button every time I want to navigate around my phone starts to feel like unnecessary work.

Give gestures a try, and I bet you'll forget those 3 buttons ever existed.

I make the back do more - Two taps, one handy shortcut

The next feature I jump into is the one that makes me wonder why Samsung didn't turn it on by default. It's the famous Back-Tap action. On my Galaxy Z Fold 6, it turns the back of my phone into a tiny but convenient shortcut. I can double-tap the logo to take screenshots, something I probably do 100 times a day, and it's much easier than juggling the phone to press the Power and Volume Down buttons. I can also assign a different action to a triple tap, such as opening an app or triggering another shortcut.

Samsung offers this through the RegiStar module in Good Lock: I open Good Lock, install RegiStar, tap Back-tap action, turn it on, and then choose what I want the double-tap or triple-tap to do. I usually keep double-tap for screenshots because I use it constantly. But if screenshots aren't your thing, assign the double-tap to something that you frequently do. Once you get used to having an invisible button for your everyday tasks, reaching through menus to perform them will feel unnecessarily slow and boring.

I will stop letting my notifications disappear - One tap before they're gone

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Credit: Sanya Shaw /How-To Geek

Once I start my phone after a factory reset, I'm bombarded with notifications like there's no tomorrow. They're usually alerts about apps I've just installed, updates, emails, messages, and so on. When my notification panel starts filling up, I usually start swiping them away without thinking, not realizing that the important ones can easily get buried among all that noise.

That's why enabling Notification History is one of the first things everyone should do. It keeps a record of recently dismissed notifications, so I can go back and check whether I've accidentally missed my mom's message or a work email from my editor. On most Android phones, I go to Settings -> Notifications -> Advanced settings -> Notification History and turn it on. I don't have to rely on my memory or hope that the notification pops up again after I dismiss it in a hurry.

It's a tiny safety net, but now I don't panic because I can retrace anything I've swiped away while I'm half asleep on a Sunday afternoon.

I give myself more screen time - 30 seconds are way too short sometimes

Credit: Sanya Shah/How-To Geek

A 30-second screen timeout is way too short, especially for me, since I'm constantly reading articles or following a recipe my husband sent me. The problem is that I don't always touch my phone while I'm cooking, so the screen can turn off right when I need to check the next step. I'd rather give myself a few extra minutes than keep waking up my phone every time the screen goes dark.

On my Galaxy, I head to Settings -> Display -> scroll down until you see Screen timeout and increase the duration to 10 minutes. If your husband isn't a foodie, you can choose a shorter duration that works for you. There's also another handy option called Keep screen on while viewing, which uses the front camera to detect when you're looking at the screen and keeps it on even if you're not touching your phone. I turn this on, too. Just keep in mind that this feature may not be available on every Galaxy model or software version.

You'll realize how useful these settings are when you don't have them.

A fresh reset, my way

A factory reset gives me a clean slate, but I don't want to stop there. I'd rather spend a few more minutes tweaking the settings I know I'll use every day. So, the next time you do a factory reset on your Android phone, don't rush to restore everything and call it done. Check these settings first, and your future self will thank you.

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Background Windows Apps are Quietly Eating Your WiFi
- Here's How to Stop Them

By Dibakar Ghosh for How-To Geek

Do you have a fast internet connection, but your Windows PC often feels slower than it should? Have you already tried switching your DNS providers and other internet speed optimization hacks, but still no luck? Well, I've been in the same place you are-- and after some digging around, I found that a few background apps and processes were causing the problem. Here's how to find out if that's happening on your PC and how to stop it for good.

NOTE: I'll stick to Windows 11's native tools for this one. But if you're open to installing a 3rd-party app, I've covered a free and open-source network monitor at the end. It can block specific apps from accessing the internet.

Find all the apps that are using your internet - You can't fix what you haven't measured

Before you can stop background apps from hogging your bandwidth, you first need to know which ones are actually using it.

Now, for this discovery process, your first instinct might be to open Task Manager, and yes, it does show network usage per app-- but you're only seeing real-time data. Say an app or process was running overnight and drained 5GB of your data but is currently sitting idle. You're going to completely miss that if you open Task Manager right now. What you want instead is cumulative usage.

For that, head to Settings -> Network & internet -> Advanced network settings -> Data usage. This screen lists every app on your system along with how much data each one has consumed over the last 30 days, sorted from hungriest to lightest.

Most of it will make sense-- your browser will likely be at the top, followed by things like Steam or OneDrive if you use them. What you're looking for is an app that you rarely use but is consuming gigabytes of data for no apparent reason. Those are the potential troublemakers.

Limit background app permissions - Not all apps need to run after you close them

How-To Geek

Now that you know which apps are the problem, the first fix is to cut off their background activity. To do this, head to Settings > Apps > Installed Apps. Find the specific app, click the 3-dot menu next to it, and select Advanced options  or Modify-- whichever shows up for that app.

Scroll down until you see Background app permissions and set it to Never. This will stop the app from running in the background, which not only saves it from slowing down your PC by consuming your CPU and RAM, but also saves WiFi bandwidth by preventing those routine app updates.

Now, I should mention that this method will only work for apps installed through the Microsoft Store and the apps Windows ships by default. If you installed an app the regular way-- by downloading an installer EXE from the internet-- you won't be able to modify the app's permissions using this method.

TIP: You can use Portmaster-- a free and open-source network firewall-- to block internet access for those apps, which effectively does the same thing. I've talked about Portmaster in a later section.

Configure delivery optimization for Windows updates - You shouldn't stop updates but you should negotiate with them 

How-To Geek

If you look closely at my data usage screen, you might notice that "System and Windows Update" is at a whopping 93GB. Considering my total consumption for the month was around 205GB, that means Windows itself-- not individual apps-- was eating nearly half of my monthly data. Now, you obviously need to keep Windows updated, so the goal isn't to stop updates-- but rather to control how and when they download.

First, if you're on a metered connection, go to Settings -> Network & internet, select your WiFi or Ethernet connection, and turn on Metered connection. This tells Windows to limit data usage and de-prioritize big feature updates and other optional stuff. Your regular security updates will still come through.

As a more aggressive measure, you can also Pause Updates for up to 5 weeks. This gives you the flexibility to prevent updates entirely during that period and then manually resume them when you have access to an unmetered network, like your office WiFi or when you're at a friend's place. Just remember to ask for their permission first.

That said, even if you have an unlimited internet plan, you might not be worried about saving data, but you should still optimize for saving bandwidth. You don't want Windows to suddenly pull a multi-gigabyte update in the background while you're on a video call or gaming online. Granted, Windows does throttle background downloads on its own to some extent, but setting an explicit cap means an update can never flood your connection at the worst possible moment.

To do this, head to Settings -> Windows Update -> Advanced options -> Delivery optimization. Then, under Download options, you get 2 options to cap how much bandwidth updates are allowed to consume-- you can limit it to absolute Mbps values or as a percentage of measured bandwidth. I'm personally using the percentage option and don't give it more than 30%.

Use Portmaster to block internet access for any app - Get granular control over how your apps are accessing the internet

Windows' built-in settings can only take you so far. If you want a more comprehensive overview of what's happening on your network-- and actual control over it-- I'd strongly recommend installing a dedicated tool, specifically Portmaster. It's a free and open-source application firewall. Once installed, it shows you every app and service on your computer that's connecting to the internet, along with exactly which servers each one is talking to.

Also, apart from simply monitoring your network activity, you can use the app to block an app's internet access entirely-- or even prevent it from connecting to specific servers. This effectively lets you create an offline version of all the apps on your system. Other than that, you can also enable various filter lists that block known trackers and ad networks, which can reduce the overall load on your network and lead to faster load times.

NOTE: Portmaster is not a sponsored recommendation. I use it personally and find it genuinely useful.
 

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I've Been Deepfaked: What Do I Do?

By Phil Muncaster for We Live Security

Don't panic if you spot an illegally created image or video of you online-- there are ways to request its removal.

We Live Security

Tackling deepfakes has become something of a common cause across the political spectrum, in America and elsewhere. That's down in part to the fact these fabricated videos and images are becoming both more commonplace and realistic. Thanks to generative AI (GenAI) tools, it's extremely quick, cheap and easy to make fake media impersonating a real person.

While some are sent as a joke, there's a darker underside to deepfakes. Cybercriminals and fraudsters are increasingly using the technology in scams and extortion. Bullies use it to harass, humiliate and abuse their victims. Children are often targeted, and some victims have even taken their own lives as a result.

All of which explains the success of the TAKE IT DOWN Act, which recently became law in the US. But across the globe, policymakers and public opinion are forcing tech platforms to better police this content. That's good news for anyone that finds themselves on the receiving end of a deepfake.

Are deepfakes illegal?

The frustrating answer is, it depends. In the US, the TAKE IT DOWN Act criminalizes the distribution of non-consensual intimate imagery (NCII), with online platforms required to provide clear reporting mechanisms and takedown legitimately reported images within 48 hours. In the UK, the Data Act and Online Safety Act make it a criminal offense to create NCII. The authorities have also imposed a 48-hour mandatory window for removal. The EU AI Act will shortly introduce a ban on systems specifically designed to create NCII. But individuals' actions are governed by member states' laws. However, if the image is of a child, it is illegal in most if not all jurisdictions.

Outside of NCII, it depends on what the deepfake was created for. If it was distributed without consent and/or used for malicious ends such as fraud, blackmail, defamation, harassment or impersonation, it could be illegal.

What should I do if I've been deepfaked?

If someone has made a deepfake of you that doesn't qualify as NCII, first save the evidence. That means screenshotting the page or account, saving the URL and making a note of the account or username, the date and time you found it, and any accompanying text. It makes sense not to engage with the person who posted it, or they may disseminate the content even further.

You'll need to follow the rules below to report the offending content, as well as any impersonation, fraud, extortion or additional threats that could be part of a broader crime. It goes without saying that if you feel physically threatened, report it to the police.

How do I report a deepfake photo/video of me?

Most online and social platforms now have a reporting mechanism for deepfakes, but they rarely have a single button to do so. You'll usually have to find the offense that the deepfake enabled-- e.g., bullying, fraud-- and then explain it.

• Google: Try Google's remove personal information tool-- or here-- and the legal removal request form to remove non-NCII from search results. This will make it harder for people to find your deepfake. Note that this won't remove the underlying content.
• Facebook: Open the post/video. Select ⋯ → Report post/video; Choose the category that best describes the issue, e.g. impersonation, harassment. Explain that the content is AI-generated and clarify what makes it deceptive or harmful.
• Instagram: Click on the 2 lines in the top right, then Report, and choose the most appropriate reason.
• TikTok: On the video: Share → Report → Misinformation → Deepfakes, synthetic media, and manipulated media → Submit.
• YouTube: If someone uses AI to create or alter content that looks or sounds like you, you can ask for it to be removed via the Privacy Complaint Process for altered or synthetic content.
• X: Report the individual post. Tap the 3 horizontal dots. Report post → follow the reporting flow. Explain that the content is AI-generated and why that's a problem.

How do I get an AI nude image of me removed?

NCII demands a rapid response, for obvious reasons. A good first bet is StopNCII.org, a resource operated by the Revenge Porn Helpline, which is part of international charity SWGfL. Select the offending image/video and StopNCII.org will create a hash of it on your device. If the report is successful, you will receive a case number. And most importantly, participating platforms will look for the same hash and remove any matching images on their systems if it violates their policy.

Partners include Meta, TikTok, Reddit and X. You'll also want to remove the deepfake from Google Search so it becomes harder for people to find.

TakeItDown.NCMEC.org operates a similar system for images/video of those under-18.

A website won't remove my photo, what next?

Google may have de-indexed the deepfake of you, but it may still be available on an underlying website. The first point of call is to contact the publisher to request removal. But if they refuse, work through the following steps:

• Preserve the evidence, including screenshots, URL, date and time you first spotted it, the website's response to your request, and the account/user that uploaded it
  
• Find the website's legal/privacy/copyright contact, and write telling them that the image/video depicts you and is being published without your consent. Request its removal under the appropriate website policy or local laws, and to confirm in writing when this has been done
  
• In the UK/EU you can do the above citing a GDPR, Article 17 right-to-erasure request. If they still refuse, or take no action, escalate to your local data protection regulator
  
• In the US, your course of action will depend on individual state laws
  

The key when interacting with websites, social platforms, search engines, or regulators is not merely to state that the content is AI-generated, but specify exactly why it's problematic-- e.g., fraud, harassment, impersonation etc. Be persistent and consider contacting the search engine, social site/website and regulator simultaneously to save time.

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