security meet culture
I Changed the Default Location for Downloads in Windows 11
and You Should Too
By Digvijay Kumar for makeuseof
My Downloads folder used to be a mess of screenshots, zip files, and random documents I promised myself I would organize someday. But that "someday" never arrived. Luckily, I found a way to reclaim my main drive space without deleting everything.
I Got Tired of Fighting for Space on My Main Drive
My Downloads folder used to be a mess of screenshots, zip files, and random documents I promised myself I would organize someday. But that "someday" never arrived. Luckily, I found a way to reclaim my main drive space without deleting everything.
I Got Tired of Fighting for Space on My Main Drive
By default, Windows saves all downloads to the Downloads folder on the C: drive. While this setup keeps everything in one place, it can become a problem over time. The folder starts to fill with PDFs, installers, images, videos, and other files. Many of them are duplicates or no longer needed. Eventually, it turns into a cluttered space that slows you down and takes up valuable system storage.
Organizing the folder with subfolders for work, personal files, and temporary content can help at first. But even a well-structured Downloads folder becomes difficult to manage as the files continue to pile up. Sorting through everything manually takes time and often feels like digging through a digital junk drawer.
At the same time, many systems have a second drive with plenty of free space that often goes unused. Leaving all downloads on the C: drive not only clutters the workspace but also fills up the space that Windows and essential apps rely on. When the main drive gets overloaded, performance can drop, and routine tasks like updates and backups become slower and less reliable.
Changing the default download location to another drive is a simple change that can make a big difference. It helps reduce clutter, improves system performance, and makes it easier to manage files moving forward. I recently changed my default Downloads folder to a different drive, and I wish I'd done it sooner.
How I Easily Moved My Downloads Folder
I expected the process to be technical or complicated, but it turned out to be surprisingly simple. Windows includes a built-in option that lets you move user folders like Downloads or Documents to a different location. After relocating the folder, I updated my web browser settings so they would automatically save files to the new location.
To keep things running smoothly, I also enabled a feature that cleanses old files from the Downloads folder over time. It helps prevent clutter and keeps the drive from filling up again. Here's a quick walkthrough of how to do the same on your system.
Change the Downloads Location in File Explorer
I started by moving the Downloads folder from the C: drive to the D: drive using File Explorer. The process takes just a few clicks:
- Press Win + E to open File Explorer.
- In the left-hand sidebar, right-click Downloads and select Properties.
- In the Properties window, go to the Location tab.
- Click Move, then browse to the folder where you want to store your downloads.
- Select the folder, then click Select Folder and choose Apply.
- When prompted to move existing files to the new location, click Yes.
File Explorer will transfer your files to the new folder. The process may take a few moments, depending on the size of your Downloads folder and the speed of your drive. After it's done, your new location will be active, and all future downloads will automatically be saved there.
Set Your Browser's Download Location
Once the Downloads folder was moved, I updated the settings in each browser to ensure new files would automatically save to the right place. Most modern browsers include an option to choose a custom download folder. Here's how I did it in the ones I use.
Google Chrome and Edge
In Chrome, click the 3-dots in the top-right corner and select Settings. In the left sidebar, click Downloads. You'll see the current download location listed here. To change it, click Change, select your new folder, and then click Select Folder to confirm.
Since Edge is also built on Chromium, the steps are nearly identical to those of Google Chrome.
Edge also offers a setting called "Ask me what to do with each download". If you want to pick a save location every time, turn this on. Otherwise, files will go straight to your chosen folder.
Once changed, the browser will automatically save your files to the folder you choose.
Mozilla Firefox
Firefox handles downloads a little differently. To change the download location, click the menu button-- the 3 horizontal lines in the top right-- and select Settings. In the General section, scroll down to Files and Applications.
Under Downloads, click Browse next to Save files to, then choose your new folder and click Select Folder to confirm.
You can also enable "Always ask you where to save files" if you prefer to select the location for each download.
Automate Cleanup with Storage Sense
Once the folder is moved and browser settings are updated, the next step is to manage clutter from old or unused downloads. Manually cleaning up files can be tedious, but Windows includes a feature called Storage Sense that handles this automatically. It can delete temporary files, empty the recycle bin, and clear out unused items from the Downloads folder based on your preferences.
I enable Storage Sense, so I never have to do those last-minute cleanups again. Instead of manually sorting through folders, I let Windows handle it quietly in the background. This is one of the best ways to make sure you never run out of space on your Windows PC.
You can also choose what types of files it should clean. For example, it can delete items in the recycle bin that are older than 30 days, or remove files in the Downloads folder that haven't been opened in 60 days.
Why You Should Move Your Downloads Folder
The C: drive is the main workspace for your system. It stores Windows, apps, and the essential files that keep your PC running smoothly. But when every download lands in the same folder, it's easy to lose track of things. Over time, my Downloads folder turned into a dumping ground. I kept meaning to clean it, but the mess kept growing.
When I finally changed the download location, I took the chance to set up a better system. I created separate folders for work, personal files, and temporary items in the right places.
Now, I don't waste time searching through random files. I know where everything is, and it's easier to sort or delete stuff when needed. That simple bit of organization has made a big difference in how smoothly I get things done.
Keep Your Important Files Safe
The default Downloads folder isn't designed for long-term storage. If Windows crashes, or you ever need to reinstall the operating system, you could lose important files without warning. Anything saved on the C: drive is at risk. Even performing a basic factory reset on Windows can erase everything stored on the system drive.
I moved my downloads to another drive to avoid that risk. It also made backing up files much easier. This one simple change gave me peace of mind. Now I don't worry about losing important stuff if something unexpected happens to the system.
Get Smoother System Updates
System updates require temporary space on the C: drive to download, unpack, and install files. Windows uses this space to store update files, create restore points, and manage background tasks. If your drive is full, updates may slow down, fail to install, or trigger repeated error messages. Low storage can block critical security patches and leave your system vulnerable.
Moving the Downloads folder to another drive frees up space for Windows updates. With more room, updates can be installed faster without last-minute cleanups or interruptions. This small change keeps the system running smoothly and ensures regular updates aren't a hassle.
Changing your default Downloads folder in Windows might sound like a small tweak, but it can actually make a big difference. With less clutter on your system drive, your PC runs smoother, patches install more quickly, and your files stay better organized.
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How to Find Out if Someone Installed Monitoring Software on Your Laptop
By Alvin Wanjala for makeuseof
ImageFlow/Shutterstock
Ever feel like someone's watching you through your laptop? If your device is acting strange, it might not be paranoia. Thankfully, there are some simple ways to spot hidden monitoring software and regain control of your privacy.
Look for Unusual Behavior
One of the first telltale signs that someone might have installed monitoring software on your laptop is a noticeable change in how it behaves. Using this same technique, you can spot malware on your smartphone.
Monitoring tools often run in the background, silently collecting data or logging your activity, which can strain your system and lead to unusual behavior. If your laptop feels sluggish, takes longer to boot up, drains the battery faster, or its fans are unusually loud even when you're not running heavy applications, that could be a clue that something is off.
Monitoring tools often run in the background, silently collecting data or logging your activity, which can strain your system and lead to unusual behavior. If your laptop feels sluggish, takes longer to boot up, drains the battery faster, or its fans are unusually loud even when you're not running heavy applications, that could be a clue that something is off.
Pay attention to pop-ups, especially in strange locations, like when you're not browsing, or an abnormal increase in pop-up ads across your favorite websites. Also, watch for frequent crashes that you can't put a finger on or unexpected restarts.
If you often use your mobile hotspot to connect your laptop to the internet, an unexpected spike in data usage can be another red flag. Monitoring software can cause all of these issues. In short, trust your instincts. If your laptop feels off, it probably is.
Scan Your System for Malware
Look for Unusual Behavior
One of the first telltale signs that someone might have installed monitoring software on your laptop is a noticeable change in how it behaves. Using this same technique, you can spot malware on your smartphone.
Monitoring tools often run in the background, silently collecting data or logging your activity, which can strain your system and lead to unusual behavior. If your laptop feels sluggish, takes longer to boot up, drains the battery faster, or its fans are unusually loud even when you're not running heavy applications, that could be a clue that something is off.
Monitoring tools often run in the background, silently collecting data or logging your activity, which can strain your system and lead to unusual behavior. If your laptop feels sluggish, takes longer to boot up, drains the battery faster, or its fans are unusually loud even when you're not running heavy applications, that could be a clue that something is off.
Pay attention to pop-ups, especially in strange locations, like when you're not browsing, or an abnormal increase in pop-up ads across your favorite websites. Also, watch for frequent crashes that you can't put a finger on or unexpected restarts.
If you often use your mobile hotspot to connect your laptop to the internet, an unexpected spike in data usage can be another red flag. Monitoring software can cause all of these issues. In short, trust your instincts. If your laptop feels off, it probably is.
Scan Your System for Malware
Rawpixel/Nim Studio/Shutterstock
One trait of modern malware is that it's stealthier than older counterparts, which makes detection much more challenging in typical ways, like random pop-ups showing up. Fortunately, many monitoring tools, especially keyloggers and spyware, are categorized as malicious software by reputable antivirus programs.
Using these programs, you can perform a full system scan to help detect and remove threats before they do more harm. Built-in security tools like Microsoft's Windows Defender and Apple's XProtect might not sound worth your time, but I recommend using them as your first line of defense.
Ensure your virus definitions are up to date, then perform a full scan rather than a quick one, as monitoring software can hide deep within system files.
If you're unsatisfied with the scan results, consider using a trusted 3rd-party antivirus or anti-malware solution like Malwarebytes or Bitdefender. These tools often detect threats that default programs may miss.
Some even offer specific features for identifying keyloggers, rootkits, and remote access tools. But they don't come for free or cheap. So, before committing, ensure the antivirus software has all the essential features.
Review Browser Extensions
Browser extensions can be useful, but can also be tools for spying on your activity. Malicious or rogue extensions can track browsing habits, display ads, log keystrokes, or even redirect you to fake websites to steal your information. That's why reviewing your browser extensions is essential when checking for monitoring software.
Go through the list carefully and look for anything you don't recognize or remember installing. Pay extra attention to extensions that claim to offer utility functions like security enhancement-- these are sometimes used as disguises for spyware.
Also, check out our extensive list of Chrome extensions that look legit but spy on you, and ensure that none of the ones mentioned are installed. To stay safe, stick to well-reviewed and trusted extensions from reputable developers. Moving forward, check the safety of extensions before you install them in Chrome, Firefox, or any other browser.
Check Your Webcam & Microphone Access
One of the more unsettling ways someone could monitor you is by secretly accessing your laptop's webcam or microphone. Because of this, you should regularly review which apps have access to your webcam and microphone.
On Windows 11, click the Windows icon, go to Settings > Privacy & Security, then scroll down to App permissions. From the list, select Camera or Microphone and scroll down the page to see which applications have permission for the selected sensor.
Using these programs, you can perform a full system scan to help detect and remove threats before they do more harm. Built-in security tools like Microsoft's Windows Defender and Apple's XProtect might not sound worth your time, but I recommend using them as your first line of defense.
Ensure your virus definitions are up to date, then perform a full scan rather than a quick one, as monitoring software can hide deep within system files.
If you're unsatisfied with the scan results, consider using a trusted 3rd-party antivirus or anti-malware solution like Malwarebytes or Bitdefender. These tools often detect threats that default programs may miss.
Some even offer specific features for identifying keyloggers, rootkits, and remote access tools. But they don't come for free or cheap. So, before committing, ensure the antivirus software has all the essential features.
Review Browser Extensions
Browser extensions can be useful, but can also be tools for spying on your activity. Malicious or rogue extensions can track browsing habits, display ads, log keystrokes, or even redirect you to fake websites to steal your information. That's why reviewing your browser extensions is essential when checking for monitoring software.
Go through the list carefully and look for anything you don't recognize or remember installing. Pay extra attention to extensions that claim to offer utility functions like security enhancement-- these are sometimes used as disguises for spyware.
Also, check out our extensive list of Chrome extensions that look legit but spy on you, and ensure that none of the ones mentioned are installed. To stay safe, stick to well-reviewed and trusted extensions from reputable developers. Moving forward, check the safety of extensions before you install them in Chrome, Firefox, or any other browser.
Check Your Webcam & Microphone Access
One of the more unsettling ways someone could monitor you is by secretly accessing your laptop's webcam or microphone. Because of this, you should regularly review which apps have access to your webcam and microphone.
On Windows 11, click the Windows icon, go to Settings > Privacy & Security, then scroll down to App permissions. From the list, select Camera or Microphone and scroll down the page to see which applications have permission for the selected sensor.
On macOS, navigate to System Settings > Privacy & Security, then select Camera or Microphone from the list.
While on the respective pages, look for any apps you don't recognize or didn't intentionally grant access to. If unsure, turn off the app and watch if anything breaks.
Another way to tell you're being monitored is when your webcam light turns on randomly without input. However, that may not always be the case since some sophisticated monitoring software can turn off the indicator light while recording you, making detection harder.
Check Your Installed Programs
Often, monitoring software disguises itself as a harmless or obscure application, hoping to blend in with legitimate programs. These apps may even install additional apps in the background without your knowledge. That's why periodically reviewing all installed software on your laptop is essential, especially if you suspect someone may have tampered with your device.
On Windows 11, open Settings and navigate to Apps > Installed apps to view a list of your installed applications.
On macOS, open the Applications folder or navigate to System Settings > General > Storage > Applications to get a similar overview.
Go through the list individually and look for anything that seems unfamiliar, has a generic name, or was installed recently without your knowledge. If you're unsure about a specific app, a simple online search for its name, developer, functionality, or reviews can help determine its legitimacy.
Review Startup Programs
Many types of monitoring software are designed to automatically launch when you start your laptop, so they can begin collecting data immediately without drawing attention to themselves. This is common even for employee monitoring software.
As such, reviewing your startup programs is a smart way to uncover hidden tools running in the background. On Windows 11, press Ctrl + Shift + Esc to open the Task Manager, then click Startup apps in the left sidebar. This shows a list of all programs set to launch when your system boots.
On macOS, go to System Settings > General > Login Items & Extensions to see a similar list.
Check Network Activity
One unique feature of monitoring software is that it often sends data back to the owner, whether it's your keystrokes, screenshots, audio recordings, or activity logs. This means it will frequently use your internet connection even when you're not doing anything online.
Because of this, checking your laptop's network activity can help you spot any unusual transfers indicative of spyware.
On Windows, search for Resource Monitor and select it from the search results. Once open, select the Network tab for a detailed breakdown of your network usage.
On macOS, open Activity Monitor and click on the Network tab.
While viewing network usage, look for unfamiliar processes or applications consistently sending or receiving data in the background. Frequent, unexplained spikes in network usage could be a red flag.
In addition to Resource Monitor and Activity Monitor, you can use 3rd-party tools to monitor network activity on Linux, macOS, and Windows. On Windows, you can use GlassWire or NetBalancer. On macOS, LuLu is an excellent choice.
If you have concerns that someone is monitoring your computer but can't see any obvious signs, review your system for unfamiliar apps, check your network traffic, and go through your startup programs and browser extensions. The best approach is to start with the easy methods and work down to more advanced techniques.
How to Make Your iPhone as Secure as Possible
By Aman Kumar for howtogeek
Lucas Gouveia/How-To Geek | Media Whale Stock/Shutterstock
If you use an iPhone as your daily driver, there's a good chance you've stored a lot of personal information on it. You definitely wouldn't want that information to fall into the wrong hands. You can prevent that and keep your iPhone secure by taking these 6 steps.
Two-Factor Authentication
Two-factor authentication is an important security measure for your iPhone that ensures an unauthorized user cannot access your iCloud account. Once you've enabled it, you'll receive a verification code on your iPhone whenever someone tries to log in to your iCloud account from another device.
For instance, if you're trying to log in to your iCloud account on a Windows computer, you'll receive a verification code on your iPhone, which you'll need to enter on your Windows device to log in to your account. Interestingly, the iPhone also allows you to add a trusted phone number, which can come in handy if you want to access your iCloud account on a device but don't have access to your iPhone. In such cases, you'll receive the verification code on the trusted phone number's device.
Most likely, you already have 2FA enabled on your iPhone. But if you've accidentally disabled it or just want to double-check that it's turned on, open the Settings app, tap your profile icon, choose Sign-In & Security, and then tap Two-Factor Authentication.
Two-Factor Authentication
Two-factor authentication is an important security measure for your iPhone that ensures an unauthorized user cannot access your iCloud account. Once you've enabled it, you'll receive a verification code on your iPhone whenever someone tries to log in to your iCloud account from another device.
For instance, if you're trying to log in to your iCloud account on a Windows computer, you'll receive a verification code on your iPhone, which you'll need to enter on your Windows device to log in to your account. Interestingly, the iPhone also allows you to add a trusted phone number, which can come in handy if you want to access your iCloud account on a device but don't have access to your iPhone. In such cases, you'll receive the verification code on the trusted phone number's device.
Most likely, you already have 2FA enabled on your iPhone. But if you've accidentally disabled it or just want to double-check that it's turned on, open the Settings app, tap your profile icon, choose Sign-In & Security, and then tap Two-Factor Authentication.
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iCloud Private Relay
When you go online, your internet service provider and the websites you visit can easily see your DNS records and IP address. If this information falls into the wrong hands, it could be used to identify your location and even your browsing history.
If you want to prevent that, you should use the iCloud Private Relay feature. It's one of the many features offered by iCloud+ and can help safeguard your privacy. Notably, this feature is limited to Apple's browser Safari. This means that even if you enable it, your ISP and the websites you visit can still track your DNS records and IP address if you're using any browser other than Safari on your iPhone.
That said, to enable Private Relay on your iPhone, open the Settings app, tap your profile icon, select iCloud, tap Private Relay, and then turn on the Private Relay toggle.
Advanced Data Protection
End-to-end encryption is an important feature that you should always look for in all the apps and services you use on your iPhone. It ensures that no one other than you-- not even Apple-- has access to the things you do with apps on your device.
Most areas on your iPhone are end-to-end encrypted. However, features like iCloud backups, iCloud Drive, Photos, Notes, and Reminders are not end-to-end encrypted by default. If you want to extend protection to these as well, you need to enable the Advanced Data Protection feature.
Importantly, once you enable ADP, everything on your iPhone will be end-to-end encrypted, meaning that if you lose access to your account, Apple won't be able to help you recover it. Furthermore, enabling ADP also restricts iCloud access in your web browser. You'll have to confirm your identity on a trusted device every time you try to use iCloud on the web. Additionally, you'll be required to re-authorize the session every hour.
If you're okay with all these conditions, you can enable Advanced Data Protection on your iPhone by navigating to Settings > Your Profile > iCloud > Advanced Data Protection > Turn On Advanced Data Protection.
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WARNING: Enabling Advanced Data Protection is not a decision to be taken lightly due to the very real risk of being locked out of your account. Unless you're convinced you need the absolute highest level of security, we recommend leaving it off.
Stolen Device Protection
As you can probably guess from the name, the Stolen Device Protection comes into action when your iPhone gets stolen. Once you've enabled this feature, sensitive data, such as your passwords or credit card information can only be accessed using Face ID or Touch ID. This means that even if a thief somehow knows your iPhone passcode, they still won't be able to access your sensitive data.
Furthermore, the feature adds an hour-long delay for actions like changing the Apple ID password when your iPhone is away from a familiar location, such as your home or office.
To enable the Stolen Device Protection feature, go to Settings > Face ID & Passcode > Stolen Device Protection. Then, turn on the Stolen Device Protection toggle.
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Lockdown Mode
Lockdown mode is one of those security features on your iPhone that isn't designed for everyone. When you enable it, certain apps, websites, and features offer limited functionality to improve your device's security. For instance, features like SharePlay and Live Photos will become unavailable. Additionally, you'll only be able to FaceTime people you've contacted in the past 30 days.
According to Apple, this feature "provides additional protection to users who may be at risk of highly targeted cyberattacks from private companies developing state-sponsored mercenary spyware." That means it's not something you're going to use every day, but it's still good to know what this feature does and how you can enable it.
To enable Lockdown mode on your iPhone, open the Settings app and head towards Privacy and Security > Lockdown Mode > Turn On Lockdown Mode.
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Other Key Habits to Improve Your iPhone Security
In addition to taking all the above security steps, there are other habits that can help improve your iPhone's security. First, you should regularly download updates for the apps installed on your iPhone. This way, you'll not only be able to try out new features released by the app developers, but also keep the apps protected against various security threats. Furthermore, you should also make sure that you are regularly updating your iPhone.
The next thing you should do is lock important apps stored on your iPhone with Face ID. Specifically, you should do this with banking apps. This way, thieves won't be able to access these apps, even if they somehow gain access to your iPhone password.
Next, you should avoid connecting to public WiFi. Unlike private networks, public WiFi lacks security features and encryption. So, if you connect to one of these networks, it becomes very easy for a hacker to exploit the connection's vulnerabilities and gain access to your device.
In case you have no other option but to connect to a public WiFi, you should use a VPN. This can make it harder for hackers to track your location and steal your device information. Furthermore, using a VPN can help you access websites or apps that are unavailable in your region.
Lastly, you must have the Find My feature set up on your iPhone. This is undoubtedly the most important security setting on an Apple device. If you have this setting enabled, it will become very easy for you to locate your lost or stolen iPhone.
T-Mobile's Data Breach Settlement Payments are Finally Rolling Out
- How to See if You Qualify
By Artie Beaty for zdnet
After a 2021 data breach exposed the data of 76 million customers, settlement checks are finally being sent out this month. Here's what you need to know.
After a 2021 data breach exposed the data of 76 million customers, settlement checks are finally being sent out this month. Here's what you need to know.
Kerry Wan/ZDNET
If you're a T-Mobile customer-- or were back in 2021-- you might have a check showing up in your mailbox soon.
In 2021, the mobile carrier suffered a massive data breach that affected around 76 million customers-- this isn't related to the 2023 breach that affected 37 million people. T-Mobile denied any wrongdoing but agreed to settle a lawsuit about the breach out of court.
Four years later, affected customers are getting compensation.
Payments were supposed to start in April, but T-Mobile recently updated its settlement site to read "Due to unexpected delays, we now expect the distribution of settlement payments to begin in May 2025."
If you suffered financial loss from the incident, you might receive up to $25,000. If you didn't suffer any loss, even if you didn't file a claim in the suit, you can receive up to $25-- except California residents, who will receive up to $100. While those are the maximum amounts, a quick crunch of the numbers-- a $350 million settlement divided between 76 million people-- works out to about $4.50 a person, and that's before attorney fees.
If you were part of the settlement, you should have received notice. If you're unsure if the breach affected you, the suit page has an FAQ section detailing how to find out. You can also call 1-833-512-2314 for more information.
While no sensitive information like payment data was accessed in the 2023 breach, T-Mobile says, the 2021 breach saw names, addresses, social security numbers, driver's licenses, and ID information accessed by unauthorized people. Given the rise in identity theft over the past several years, the latter is especially concerning.
Even if you weren't part of this breach, it's important to take steps to make sure you're not a part of the next one-- like monitoring your credit with an identity theft protection service like Aura or Norton Lifelock.
In 2021, the mobile carrier suffered a massive data breach that affected around 76 million customers-- this isn't related to the 2023 breach that affected 37 million people. T-Mobile denied any wrongdoing but agreed to settle a lawsuit about the breach out of court.
Four years later, affected customers are getting compensation.
Payments were supposed to start in April, but T-Mobile recently updated its settlement site to read "Due to unexpected delays, we now expect the distribution of settlement payments to begin in May 2025."
If you suffered financial loss from the incident, you might receive up to $25,000. If you didn't suffer any loss, even if you didn't file a claim in the suit, you can receive up to $25-- except California residents, who will receive up to $100. While those are the maximum amounts, a quick crunch of the numbers-- a $350 million settlement divided between 76 million people-- works out to about $4.50 a person, and that's before attorney fees.
If you were part of the settlement, you should have received notice. If you're unsure if the breach affected you, the suit page has an FAQ section detailing how to find out. You can also call 1-833-512-2314 for more information.
While no sensitive information like payment data was accessed in the 2023 breach, T-Mobile says, the 2021 breach saw names, addresses, social security numbers, driver's licenses, and ID information accessed by unauthorized people. Given the rise in identity theft over the past several years, the latter is especially concerning.
Even if you weren't part of this breach, it's important to take steps to make sure you're not a part of the next one-- like monitoring your credit with an identity theft protection service like Aura or Norton Lifelock.
How to Securely Attach an Apple AirTag to Pretty Much Anything
By Adrian Kingsley-Hughes for zdnet
The UFO-like design of AirTags makes them a pain to attach to things. But I found a solution that makes the best finder tags available much easier to use.
The UFO-like design of AirTags makes them a pain to attach to things. But I found a solution that makes the best finder tags available much easier to use.
zdnet
I've mentioned more than once my undying love for Apple AirTags. These devices have made my life so much less stressful, and I have them attached to pretty much everything I could possibly lose.
However, that sleek UFO-like saucer shape makes them difficult to attach to items easily. Over the years, I've bought all sorts of holders for them, made custom 3D-printed holders, and even taken them apart so I could modify them to fit into a wallet.
But Elevation Labs-- the company behind the AirTag TimeCapsule that gives it a 10-year runtime on a set of AA batteries-- also offers a variety of holders designed to attach AirTags to different objects.
Over the past few weeks, I've been testing 3 different AirTag holders, and they're the best-in-class holders I've come across. They're durable, make it hard for bad guys to find and remove your tag, but allow you to access the tag to replace the battery when you need to.
This is a secure and low-profile tag holder. It uses 3M VHB adhesive to attach to surfaces.
However, that sleek UFO-like saucer shape makes them difficult to attach to items easily. Over the years, I've bought all sorts of holders for them, made custom 3D-printed holders, and even taken them apart so I could modify them to fit into a wallet.
But Elevation Labs-- the company behind the AirTag TimeCapsule that gives it a 10-year runtime on a set of AA batteries-- also offers a variety of holders designed to attach AirTags to different objects.
Over the past few weeks, I've been testing 3 different AirTag holders, and they're the best-in-class holders I've come across. They're durable, make it hard for bad guys to find and remove your tag, but allow you to access the tag to replace the battery when you need to.
This is a secure and low-profile tag holder. It uses 3M VHB adhesive to attach to surfaces.
Strong VHB adhesive bonds the holder to the item. Adrian Kingsley-Hughes/ZDNET
VHB is one of the best heavy duty mounting tape adhesives available, and if you clean the surface properly, this will attach almost permanently. The holder is made of tough, glass-reinforced composite that's so strong it can even be run over by a car without being damaged.
The glass-reinforced composite is super tough! Adrian Kingsley-Hughes/ZDNET
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A special tool is needed to open the holder to remove the AirTag. Adrian Kingsley-Hughes/ZDNET
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Additionally, the holder is specifically designed with angled sides to make it difficult to knock off. It's rated IP69 for dust and water resistance and includes a gasket to seal the AirTag from the elements. The AirTag is securely held inside the holder and requires a special tool to remove it.
This holder, like the previous one, is made of tough, glass-reinforced composite. It's designed to attach an AirTag to a strap or fabric using specially designed security screws that pierce the fabric for a secure fit. (Don't worry, you get the appropriate screwdriver for the fasteners.)
Security fasteners are used to secure the holder in place. Adrian Kingsley-Hughes/ZDNET
The holder also includes a gasket to keep water and dirt away from the AirTag, ensuring durability in different environments.
Elevation Labs claims this to be the first AirTag fabric mount that is quick and easy to install on luggage, purses, bags, or jackets.
The adhesive is incredibly strong, reaching full adhesion after 24 hours. Once adhered, it's practically bonded to any nylon, polyester, vinyl, rubberized fabric, or GORE-TEX surface. However, it doesn't work on stretchy, fibrous fabrics or suede.
Elevation Labs claims this to be the first AirTag fabric mount that is quick and easy to install on luggage, purses, bags, or jackets.
The adhesive is incredibly strong, reaching full adhesion after 24 hours. Once adhered, it's practically bonded to any nylon, polyester, vinyl, rubberized fabric, or GORE-TEX surface. However, it doesn't work on stretchy, fibrous fabrics or suede.
The perfect way to attach an AirTag to fabric items. Adrian Kingsley-Hughes/ZDNET
The holder is specially engineered to withstand impacts from items shoved into a bag, making it ideal for camera bags, golf bags, purses, handbags, expensive jackets, and anything else you want to keep track of.
ZDNET's buying advice
Elevation Labs has been hitting it out of the park with its products. The TimeCapsule, which replaces the button cell with 2 AA batteries, simply revolutionizes AirTag use, and these holders do much the same.
These tags come in single, 2-pack, and 4-pack options, with prices ranging from $14 to $25, depending on how many holders you need. I highly recommend them without hesitation.
If you use AirTags, you need to check out what Elevation Labs has to offer. And if there's something else you want to attach an AirTag to-- everything from your cat, dog, mountain bike, car, or wallet-- Elevation Labs has the holder you need to make this easy.
No home-craft fabricobbling something, or trying to 3D print something that works-- or, as I've done before, just duct tape the AirTag to the item-- yeah, that looked bad.
ZDNET's buying advice
Elevation Labs has been hitting it out of the park with its products. The TimeCapsule, which replaces the button cell with 2 AA batteries, simply revolutionizes AirTag use, and these holders do much the same.
These tags come in single, 2-pack, and 4-pack options, with prices ranging from $14 to $25, depending on how many holders you need. I highly recommend them without hesitation.
If you use AirTags, you need to check out what Elevation Labs has to offer. And if there's something else you want to attach an AirTag to-- everything from your cat, dog, mountain bike, car, or wallet-- Elevation Labs has the holder you need to make this easy.
No home-craft fabricobbling something, or trying to 3D print something that works-- or, as I've done before, just duct tape the AirTag to the item-- yeah, that looked bad.
Turn Off Windows' Recall to Protect Your Privacy
By Nick Lewis for howtogeek
Lucas Gouveia/How-To Geek | Microsoft | brain_fix/Shutterstock
Microsoft has finally rolled out the ever-controversial Recall feature, but not everyone is pleased with the idea of it. Here's how you can disable Recall if it is on, and how you can prevent Recall from re-enabling itself in the future.
What is Recall?
Recall is an AI-driven feature that allows your operating system to "remember" what you've done, where you placed files, and other activities.
It does that by saving snapshots of your desktop once every 5 seconds, then lets you search for information from those snapshots using natural language to help you remember what you were doing. Don't remember where you saw that recipe for bolognese? You can just ask Recall.
Recall has been the subject of controversy since it was first announced due to the potential security and privacy concerns. It also eats up a respectable amount of storage-- you'll need at least 50GB free for Recall to work, and it'll automatically disable itself once your PC's free space drops below 25GB.
Microsoft claims the data is only processed locally-- which is true, it works without an internet connection-- but I'm still not a fan of having yet more of my data processed and analyzed.
How to Disable Recall
If feeding screenshots of your PC's activity to an AI isn't appealing, you can disable Recall.
To do that, press Windows+i to open the Settings app, then click Privacy & security in the left sidebar, then navigate to Recall & snapshots.
What is Recall?
Recall is an AI-driven feature that allows your operating system to "remember" what you've done, where you placed files, and other activities.
It does that by saving snapshots of your desktop once every 5 seconds, then lets you search for information from those snapshots using natural language to help you remember what you were doing. Don't remember where you saw that recipe for bolognese? You can just ask Recall.
Recall has been the subject of controversy since it was first announced due to the potential security and privacy concerns. It also eats up a respectable amount of storage-- you'll need at least 50GB free for Recall to work, and it'll automatically disable itself once your PC's free space drops below 25GB.
Microsoft claims the data is only processed locally-- which is true, it works without an internet connection-- but I'm still not a fan of having yet more of my data processed and analyzed.
How to Disable Recall
If feeding screenshots of your PC's activity to an AI isn't appealing, you can disable Recall.
To do that, press Windows+i to open the Settings app, then click Privacy & security in the left sidebar, then navigate to Recall & snapshots.
Click the toggle below Save Snapshots.
That should disable Recall.
However, since Windows features have a funny habit of activating after updates, there are a few things you can do to force Recall to stay off.
Prevent Recall from Activating by Removing Biometric Authentication
Recall requires more than just Windows Hello, which includes the PIN option. It requires you to use biometric authentication, which means your fingerprint or facial recognition. If you remove your biometric login information, Recall can't be activated, and it should prevent it from being spontaneously reactivated later.
To remove your biometric login data, press Windows+i, then head to Accounts > Sign-in Options. Click on a biometric option to see more options, then click the Remove button to delete it.
Once you've removed both facial recognition and fingerprint, Recall should disable itself, since you no longer meet the requirements. It should also prevent Recall from being reactivated.
Can You Delete Recall?
Not exactly. You can't forcibly delete something like "recall.exe" because it doesn't exist, though you can turn it off completely. Recall is built into explorer.exe, which is what gives you File Explorer, your taskbar, and the Start menu. It is an essential program if you plan to run Windows with a graphical user interface and not a command line.
You may find modified executables of explorer.exe that claim to remove the part related to Recall, but I'd strongly advise against trying them. That is an enormous security vulnerability and an exciting malware opportunity for someone with bad intentions. It isn't worth the risk.
If you want to turn off Recall, press the Windows key to open the Start menu, then search for Turn Windows Features On or Off and select the first option.
Scroll down until you see Recall, then untick the box next to it.
If you aren't satisfied with disabling and uninstalling Recall, your only long-term option is to switch operating systems, because it seems unlikely to go away any time soon.
What About Device Encryption?
You can forcibly disable Recall by disabling Device Encryption-- or BitLocker-- since encryption is required for Recall to function, but that would be extremely counterproductive.
Without encryption, all of the contents of your PC would be freely accessible to anyone that gained physical access to your drive and plugged it into another computer.
Opening a privacy and security vulnerability the size of the Pacific Ocean on your PC just to disable Recall because of privacy concerns is working against your own interests.
Recall is an interesting feature, and one that potentially has many benefits. However, until it has a proven safety and privacy record, it isn't a vulnerability I'm willing to create.
How to Make Your Windows Installation More Private
By Faisal Rasoo for howtogeek
Lucas Gouveia / How-To Geek
Windows-- by default-- has become a privacy nightmare. Microsoft has made it impossible to install Windows without linking it to a Microsoft account first. Not to mention the incredibly invasive telemetry triggered during installation. Let me show you how to do an effortless and clean Windows install with a local account.
Default Windows Installations Are Terrible For Privacy
If you're just looking to go ahead with the installation process, feel free to jump to the next section. But first, I want to talk about why we're bothering with this setup at all.
When you log in to Windows using your Microsoft account, Windows can tie your activity directly to your identity. So absolutely anything you do on your device, the apps you download and use, what you search for in the Start menu, and your browsing activity in Edge is linked personally to you, not to your device.
NOTE: Even if you use a throwaway account to log into Windows, your activity is still tied to that account, creating a unique ID to profile you. If you ever end up, say, making a payment with your credit card while logged into that account on your Xbox, they'll connect your real identity to that profile. Or, say you ever have to recover that account, Microsoft could demand a phone number to restore your access.
With a local account, you never have to worry about account-wide tracking because all your usage data is anonymous, not profiled. Windows will still phone home but the data it can harvest and send back is limited. That's why Microsoft is pushing online accounts so aggressively.
What You'll Need
We need 3 things to make this work:
Rufus is a free tool for creating bootable USB drives-- it basically turns your USB into an operating system installer. Ever since Microsoft started tightening the restrictions around local accounts by patching workarounds, Rufus developers have started packaging the tool with features to skip Microsoft's invasive online account requirements and more.
You'll also need a clean copy of the Windows installation image. The best place to get it is directly from Microsoft's website, where it's freely available.
WARNING: Avoid downloading random ISOs from sketchy websites because they could be modified or injected with malware. I only recommend the official Microsoft website to source the ISO file.
You can choose Windows 11 or 10-- along with your preferred edition-- and we'll flash the USB with this image using Rufus. The USB stick needs at least 8GB of space. I'm using a 16GB one for this demonstration, but any old thumb drive you have lying around should do just fine.
WARNING: Be sure to back up any important data you have on the drive because Rufus is going to wipe it clean before writing the ISO file to it. Also, modifying the ISO always comes with the risk of breaking some functionality. I've done this many times, and my installations work just fine every single time, but that risk is never zero.
How to Create a Privacy-friendly Windows Installer
Let's start by collecting the files we need. First, head over to the official Rufus website and download the latest version of Rufus. You'll also need to download the Windows ISO image from Microsoft's website.
TIP: I'm on an Intel machine, so I'm using the x64 version. If your device has an ARM chip, you'll need the ARM version. Search for system info in the Start menu and look under System Type. It should tell you if your processor is ARM-based or x64-based.
Default Windows Installations Are Terrible For Privacy
If you're just looking to go ahead with the installation process, feel free to jump to the next section. But first, I want to talk about why we're bothering with this setup at all.
When you log in to Windows using your Microsoft account, Windows can tie your activity directly to your identity. So absolutely anything you do on your device, the apps you download and use, what you search for in the Start menu, and your browsing activity in Edge is linked personally to you, not to your device.
NOTE: Even if you use a throwaway account to log into Windows, your activity is still tied to that account, creating a unique ID to profile you. If you ever end up, say, making a payment with your credit card while logged into that account on your Xbox, they'll connect your real identity to that profile. Or, say you ever have to recover that account, Microsoft could demand a phone number to restore your access.
With a local account, you never have to worry about account-wide tracking because all your usage data is anonymous, not profiled. Windows will still phone home but the data it can harvest and send back is limited. That's why Microsoft is pushing online accounts so aggressively.
What You'll Need
We need 3 things to make this work:
- Rufus
- The official Windows image
- A USB Drive
Rufus is a free tool for creating bootable USB drives-- it basically turns your USB into an operating system installer. Ever since Microsoft started tightening the restrictions around local accounts by patching workarounds, Rufus developers have started packaging the tool with features to skip Microsoft's invasive online account requirements and more.
You'll also need a clean copy of the Windows installation image. The best place to get it is directly from Microsoft's website, where it's freely available.
WARNING: Avoid downloading random ISOs from sketchy websites because they could be modified or injected with malware. I only recommend the official Microsoft website to source the ISO file.
You can choose Windows 11 or 10-- along with your preferred edition-- and we'll flash the USB with this image using Rufus. The USB stick needs at least 8GB of space. I'm using a 16GB one for this demonstration, but any old thumb drive you have lying around should do just fine.
WARNING: Be sure to back up any important data you have on the drive because Rufus is going to wipe it clean before writing the ISO file to it. Also, modifying the ISO always comes with the risk of breaking some functionality. I've done this many times, and my installations work just fine every single time, but that risk is never zero.
How to Create a Privacy-friendly Windows Installer
Let's start by collecting the files we need. First, head over to the official Rufus website and download the latest version of Rufus. You'll also need to download the Windows ISO image from Microsoft's website.
TIP: I'm on an Intel machine, so I'm using the x64 version. If your device has an ARM chip, you'll need the ARM version. Search for system info in the Start menu and look under System Type. It should tell you if your processor is ARM-based or x64-based.
Scroll all the way down to the Download Windows 11 Disk Image section. Select your chosen edition from the drop-down menu. I picked the Windows 11 multi-edition file. Then click Download and select a language. Click Confirm and then 64-bit Download.
Once the file downloads, we're ready to create the USB installer.
Plug in your USB drive and open Rufus. Rufus will automatically detect connected drives under the Device label.
Click Select and load the ISO file you downloaded. You can also drag-and-drop the file directly into Rufus to load it.
TIP: Leave the rest of the settings untouched because Rufus automatically picks the right ones. If you like, you can change the volume label so it's easy to identify among other disks.
Click Start. A window should pop up where you can customize your installation. Check the following settings.
- Remove the requirement for 4GB+ RAM, Secure Boot and TPM 2.0.
- Remove requirement for an online Microsoft Account
- Create a local account with the username.
- Disable data collection (skip privacy questions).
We're removing the requirement for an online account, removing TPM and secure boot requirements, creating a local account with a simple username, and disabling data collection. Click OK twice.
NOTE: Microsoft makes a bunch of requests during a fresh installation to enable data collection and telemetry. When we're modifying the installer image, Rufus will disable those defaults, so you don't have to.
Rufus will start writing to the USB. It takes around 10–15 minutes, depending on how powerful your computer and thumb drive are.
How To Install Windows Using The Modified ISO
Now we're ready to install Windows. Plug the USB into the target computer and enter the 1-time boot menu. Every manufacturer has its own shortcut key for entering the temporary boot menu, but usually it's one of the function keys.
I booted from the USB, and it dropped me into the Windows 11 setup From here on out, the setup wizard will guide you through the installation. You just have to pick the language, the Windows edition, and the drive where Windows will be installed.
My target computer only has a single drive, which I'm erasing for the fresh installation.
Then you just click Install and wait for the process to complete. The computer will reboot a couple of times, but you don't need to touch it until the setup finishes.
On the first boot, Windows will ask you to pick your region and keyboard layout. It might ask you to connect to WiFi too, but after that it'll drop you directly on the desktop. Note that you already have a local account with the username you gave to Rufus.
With that, we've completed the installation without even interacting with the telemetry or online account screens. If you miss the simplicity of old-school Windows installations, give Rufus a try.
These Tech Tips Will Make You Too Powerful
By Kim Komando
ChatGPT
When you're the tech-savvy friend, it's basically your job to fix everything that plugs in. Depending on your OS, model, updates and general tech karma, your screen might not match mine exactly. Don't panic, just keep moving forward.
Secret Windows restart trick
A simple reboot can fix most computer issues. Instead, try a Shift shutdown to close all processes and apps and clear the RAM completely.
Did you know Windows is more environmentally friendly than macOS? Windows puts your deleted files in the Recycle Bin; macOS just throws them in the Trash.
Wipe your location from photos
Your phone is a snitch. Every photo you snap is packed with metadata, the time, camera settings and location-- hello, stalkers. Here's how to turn it off.
Fix your phone's call audio
Let's say you're on the phone with a pal, and your background is so noisy that your friend can't hear you. Good news if you have an iPhone: There's Voice Isolation mode.
On a Samsung phone, open Settings > Sounds and vibration > Sound quality and effects. Here, you'll see Adapt sound. You can customize this or choose a preset option. Super easy.
Have a newer Google Pixel? Go to Settings > Sound & vibration > Clear calling. Toggle on Use Clear Calling.
Remote in like an IT pro
It can be frustrating to walk someone through tech steps. Try Google's Chrome Remote Desktop. Install the free browser extension on both your computer and the computer of someone you're helping. When it's time to remote in, go to the Remote Desktop site.
Opt out of ad tracking
Just say no to personalized advertising on your phone. This is the best tip on this list, don't you think?
Secret Windows restart trick
A simple reboot can fix most computer issues. Instead, try a Shift shutdown to close all processes and apps and clear the RAM completely.
- Hold down the Shift key before you hit Restart.
- Keep holding it until your PC powers down.
- Choose Continue when it turns back on.
Did you know Windows is more environmentally friendly than macOS? Windows puts your deleted files in the Recycle Bin; macOS just throws them in the Trash.
Wipe your location from photos
Your phone is a snitch. Every photo you snap is packed with metadata, the time, camera settings and location-- hello, stalkers. Here's how to turn it off.
- On iPhone, open the image you want to share and tap the share button (square with an arrow pointing up). Next, select Options and toggle off Location.
- On Android, open your Gallery, select the photo, then go to More options (3-dots) > Details > Edit > click Remove location information (red minus icon) and tap Save.
Fix your phone's call audio
Let's say you're on the phone with a pal, and your background is so noisy that your friend can't hear you. Good news if you have an iPhone: There's Voice Isolation mode.
- Place your call, and when your recipient picks up, swipe down from the top right of your screen to access the Control Center.
- Tap Phone Controls at the top. Under Audio & Video, choose the button labeled Voice Isolation.
On a Samsung phone, open Settings > Sounds and vibration > Sound quality and effects. Here, you'll see Adapt sound. You can customize this or choose a preset option. Super easy.
Have a newer Google Pixel? Go to Settings > Sound & vibration > Clear calling. Toggle on Use Clear Calling.
Remote in like an IT pro
It can be frustrating to walk someone through tech steps. Try Google's Chrome Remote Desktop. Install the free browser extension on both your computer and the computer of someone you're helping. When it's time to remote in, go to the Remote Desktop site.
Opt out of ad tracking
Just say no to personalized advertising on your phone. This is the best tip on this list, don't you think?
- On iPhone, open Settings > Privacy & Security. Scroll down and tap Apple Advertising. Toggle left on the switch next to Personalized Ads.
- On Android, tap Settings > Privacy > Advanced > Ads, and toggle the switch for Opt out of Ads Personalization.
Digital Self-Destruction for Fun and Paranoia
By Kim Komando
ChatGPT
How to make any USB drive self-destruct
"Kim, I'm paranoid about losing my USB drive. Is there any way to make it so if someone steals it, they can't see or open anything?" - Dave in Denver
Dave, losing a USB drive isn't just annoying. It's the secret nightmare of anyone who's ever stored files they'd rather not see on Reddit 10 minutes later.
Here's how to make your flash drive digitally self-destruct.
The secret weapon
VeraCrypt is a free tool that doesn't merely slap a password on your files. It completely locks down your entire USB with heavy-duty encryption that's virtually impossible to crack. It works on Mac, Windows and Linux.
Step 1: Encrypt everything (the right way)
Now, if someone plugs your drive into their computer, all they'll see is a scrambled mess unless they know your password.
Step 2: Hide a secret partition
You can also create a hidden volume inside your encrypted drive. Basically, a vault within a vault.
Your real private files stay hidden, even against forensic snooping. Steps at the links.
Experts only, please
If you want to go hardcore, set up a script to automatically wipe the drive after a certain number of wrong password attempts. Warning: It's risky.
If you're prone to forgetting your password, this is like Russian roulette but for your files. You'll find the steps below.
The links you need
And if you labeled your drive "IRS Training Video – PowerPoint Edition," I salute you.
"Kim, I'm paranoid about losing my USB drive. Is there any way to make it so if someone steals it, they can't see or open anything?" - Dave in Denver
Dave, losing a USB drive isn't just annoying. It's the secret nightmare of anyone who's ever stored files they'd rather not see on Reddit 10 minutes later.
Here's how to make your flash drive digitally self-destruct.
The secret weapon
VeraCrypt is a free tool that doesn't merely slap a password on your files. It completely locks down your entire USB with heavy-duty encryption that's virtually impossible to crack. It works on Mac, Windows and Linux.
Step 1: Encrypt everything (the right way)
- First, download VeraCrypt.
- Install it and encrypt the entire USB drive, not just a folder labeled "Totally Not Important Stuff."
- Pick a strong password. The longer and more random, the better.
Now, if someone plugs your drive into their computer, all they'll see is a scrambled mess unless they know your password.
Step 2: Hide a secret partition
You can also create a hidden volume inside your encrypted drive. Basically, a vault within a vault.
- You create 2 volumes: One decoy vault holds fake but boring files (tax documents, cat photos, recipes you'll never cook).
- If someone forces you to unlock it (think: bossy thief), you open the decoy.
Your real private files stay hidden, even against forensic snooping. Steps at the links.
Experts only, please
If you want to go hardcore, set up a script to automatically wipe the drive after a certain number of wrong password attempts. Warning: It's risky.
If you're prone to forgetting your password, this is like Russian roulette but for your files. You'll find the steps below.
The links you need
- Get the program. Here's the link to download it.
- Need a hand? Look at this beginner's tutorial.
- Stuck on some part? Use the VeraCrypt support forums.
And if you labeled your drive "IRS Training Video – PowerPoint Edition," I salute you.
These Are the Router Settings I Changed to Fix Streaming Buffering Forever
By Jayric Maning for makeuseof
Tired of those annoying pauses during your favorite shows? After experimenting with my router settings, I found five simple router tweaks that greatly reduced buffering on my devices and allowed me to watch streams uninterrupted.
Disable WMM Power Save Mode
Tired of those annoying pauses during your favorite shows? After experimenting with my router settings, I found five simple router tweaks that greatly reduced buffering on my devices and allowed me to watch streams uninterrupted.
Disable WMM Power Save Mode
WMM-- WiFi Multimedia-- is a QoS-- Quality of Service-- feature built into most modern routers that helps prioritize network traffic like voice, video, and background services. While WMM itself may be helpful for network optimization, its power-saving component can actually cause problems.
WMM Power Save-- sometimes called Automatic Power Save Delivery-- is designed to reduce power consumption on devices by allowing them to enter sleep mode when not actively sending or receiving data. The router buffers incoming data until your device wakes up to receive it. While this sounds great, it can be a problem with streaming performance, causing unstable connections and buffering.
I had a problem when my streaming device would sometimes stop mid-stream, despite having a strong WiFi signal. After playing around with a few settings on my router, disabling WMM Power Save made my WiFi respond more reliably to my streaming devices, reducing latency and buffering.
I accessed the WMM settings by going to WLAN > 5GHz Basic Network Settings in the sidebar menu. Your router may have a slightly different interface, but the settings should be available somewhere within the WiFi settings menu.
Change the Default DNS
When you type a website address in your browser, your router uses DNS-- Domain Name System-- servers to translate that name into the actual IP address that is required to load the page you are visiting. Basically, DNS is the internet's phonebook. Your ISP automatically assigns default DNS servers to your router, but sometimes they're not necessarily the fastest or most reliable option.
You can change your DNS to help speed up your internet connection by reducing the time it takes to look up the addresses of your favorite streaming services. The improvement you see depends on the speed and proximity of the DNS server you choose compared to your previous one. Sometimes there are no notable differences, but in some cases, it can be significant, especially if your ISP's DNS is slow or routes you inefficiently.
I adjusted the default DNS on my main router by going to Advanced > Network > DNS. Then, I changed the default DNS to Cloudflare's DNS, 1.1.1.1. Aside from Cloudflare, there are other DNS addresses you can try, including Google's public DNS-- 8.8.8.8 and Quad9-- 9.9.9.9.
If you're unsure which DNS will work best in your area, try the DNS Speed Test Benchmark and see which gives you the best performance. Some DNS providers also offer additional features like parental controls or malware blocking that might be useful depending on your needs.
Adjust WiFi Channel Width
WiFi frequency bands operate on different channel widths. In general, wider channels can carry more data but are more susceptible to interference from neighboring WiFi networks. On the other hand, narrower channels offer slower transfer rates but tend to be more reliable.
For those living in more rural places, channel widths of 80MHz or even 160MHz will provide the highest performance on a 5GHz frequency band. But if you're in a busy neighborhood close to many other WiFi access points, you'll want to go with narrower channel widths such as 40MHz on both 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands.
My WiFi router already uses the auto 20/40/80MHz setting. I want to ensure my streaming devices constantly use the widest channel width possible. Luckily, I'm in a rural area, so setting my 5GHz band to only use the faster 80MHz channel width proved to be stable. Since my default setting was already using auto mode, the differences were subtle, but at least I know that my streaming devices always got the fastest possible WiFi connection my router could provide.
Configure Traffic Shaping Settings
With traffic shaping-- sometimes called QoS-- you can set your router to prioritize certain types of internet traffic over others. This ensures that your streaming video gets priority over less time-sensitive activities like downloads or background updates. Without proper traffic shaping, a large download or backup can easily saturate your connection and cause streaming to buffer.
Traffic shaping works by creating bandwidth limits for less critical packets and prioritizing time-sensitive data like video streaming. This ensures your streaming services get a consistent portion of your bandwidth, even during peak usage times.
Most routers offer some level of QoS functionality to help control and prioritize network traffic for your devices. However, if your router lacks robust QoS options, you can often gain more control by flashing it with custom firmware or purchasing an affordable 3rd-party router that supports advanced QoS features. I personally had to flash my old router with OpenWRT to use as a wireless bridge, which gave me advanced QoS functionalities.
Set Speed Limits on Devices
If you want even more rigid control over traffic, you can set static IP addresses for your devices and manually set speed limits. By setting specific speed limits on bandwidth-hungry devices, you can ensure there's always enough left for your streaming.
On my network, I discovered that certain devices, such as smartphones and tablets with automatic cloud backups, would occasionally consume large amounts of bandwidth in the background. By setting reasonable speed limits on these devices, I was able to maintain a bandwidth reserve for streaming without affecting normal browsing.
The most effective approach is to identify which devices are causing problems-- most routers show bandwidth usage by device-- and then apply limits strategically rather than throttling everything.
After applying all 5 of these router settings, my streaming experience became significantly more reliable. If you're frustrated by those annoying buffering circles interrupting your shows, I highly recommend testing these settings one at a time. Depending on how your router is currently configured, one or two of these changes could drastically improve your streaming situation.
How to Clear Your Smart TV Cache - Why It's Worth Doing
By Alvin Wanjala for makeuseof
DIA TV / Shutterstock
Your smart TV has a section of its storage reserved for what's known as the cache, a space that holds information on your frequently used apps, thumbnails, and more. It's pretty useful, but over time, the cache can build up and cause your smart TV to slow down-- which is why it's useful to clear your smart TV cache from time to time.
What Is a Smart TV Cache?
Cache is temporary data that your smart TV holds. It's used by your TV to improve performance, especially during initial loading when you power it up and open your frequently used apps.
The way it works is that it stores frequently used content, so the next time you access it, everything loads faster without having to start from scratch. For example, the Netflix app can cache the most frequently accessed items so that it doesn't need to fetch them over the internet-- which can take a few seconds-- before rendering.
Cache isn't unique to smart TVs. It's standard across other electronic devices, including smartphones, laptops, and desktops.
Why You Should Clear Your Smart TV Cache
Over time, as you use your device, it builds up the cache. While this helps improve performance on your smart TV, it can also be the source of problems, which is why it's worth clearing out occasionally.
1. Improves Speed and Responsiveness
When you use your TV, cached data from apps and system processes builds up. This cache can become bloated or corrupted, leading to lag or freezing, which are common issues with smart TVs. This is especially noticeable when launching apps, powering on, navigating menus, or switching between apps.
While sluggish performance is one of the signs you're due for a smart TV upgrade, you shouldn't rush to do so. Simple actions, such as clearing your smart TV's cache, can significantly enhance its speed and responsiveness.
By clearing the cache, you're giving your TV a clean slate, allowing it to process tasks more efficiently. This simple act can speed up everything from scrolling through apps to initial loading after powering up.
If you're looking for ways to improve the performance of your smart TV, deleting the cache is a simple yet effective solution. However, it isn't the only way; you can also adjust certain settings to boost your smart TV's performance.
2. Frees Up Storage Space
If your smart TV lacks sufficient internal storage, cache buildup is your biggest enemy. While helpful, cached data can quickly accumulate and consume a significant portion of your storage space. If your TV starts alerting you about low storage or you can't install new apps or the latest software update, accumulated cache might be to blame.
Clearing the cache reclaims that space, freeing up your storage for software updates, new apps, and even downloaded content. You can also delete unused apps to reclaim storage space. However, the upside of deleting the cache is that it doesn't affect essential data.
Your app, app preferences, and settings will stay intact, and your login sessions across apps will remain. That's why deleting the cache is also a great way to free up space on your phone.
3. Fixes Bugs
Cache data can also cause software-related issues. If your smart TV apps are crashing unexpectedly, freezing mid-stream, or refusing to load, the cache might be the culprit. Cache data can become outdated or corrupted over time, especially after updating apps or running for a long stretch without a reboot. This then leads to unexpected behavior.
Deleting the cache removes this problematic data, giving apps a fresh start and often instantly resolving bugs and glitches.
How to Clear Cache on Your Smart TV
Now that you know the why, how do you clear the cache on a smart TV?
NOTE: I'm detailing how to delete cached data on Google TV. If your smart TV has a different operating system, please refer to your manufacturer's manual for instructions. The steps will vary depending on your TV manufacturer and the operating system your TV uses.
What Is a Smart TV Cache?
Cache is temporary data that your smart TV holds. It's used by your TV to improve performance, especially during initial loading when you power it up and open your frequently used apps.
The way it works is that it stores frequently used content, so the next time you access it, everything loads faster without having to start from scratch. For example, the Netflix app can cache the most frequently accessed items so that it doesn't need to fetch them over the internet-- which can take a few seconds-- before rendering.
Cache isn't unique to smart TVs. It's standard across other electronic devices, including smartphones, laptops, and desktops.
Why You Should Clear Your Smart TV Cache
Over time, as you use your device, it builds up the cache. While this helps improve performance on your smart TV, it can also be the source of problems, which is why it's worth clearing out occasionally.
1. Improves Speed and Responsiveness
When you use your TV, cached data from apps and system processes builds up. This cache can become bloated or corrupted, leading to lag or freezing, which are common issues with smart TVs. This is especially noticeable when launching apps, powering on, navigating menus, or switching between apps.
While sluggish performance is one of the signs you're due for a smart TV upgrade, you shouldn't rush to do so. Simple actions, such as clearing your smart TV's cache, can significantly enhance its speed and responsiveness.
By clearing the cache, you're giving your TV a clean slate, allowing it to process tasks more efficiently. This simple act can speed up everything from scrolling through apps to initial loading after powering up.
If you're looking for ways to improve the performance of your smart TV, deleting the cache is a simple yet effective solution. However, it isn't the only way; you can also adjust certain settings to boost your smart TV's performance.
2. Frees Up Storage Space
If your smart TV lacks sufficient internal storage, cache buildup is your biggest enemy. While helpful, cached data can quickly accumulate and consume a significant portion of your storage space. If your TV starts alerting you about low storage or you can't install new apps or the latest software update, accumulated cache might be to blame.
Clearing the cache reclaims that space, freeing up your storage for software updates, new apps, and even downloaded content. You can also delete unused apps to reclaim storage space. However, the upside of deleting the cache is that it doesn't affect essential data.
Your app, app preferences, and settings will stay intact, and your login sessions across apps will remain. That's why deleting the cache is also a great way to free up space on your phone.
3. Fixes Bugs
Cache data can also cause software-related issues. If your smart TV apps are crashing unexpectedly, freezing mid-stream, or refusing to load, the cache might be the culprit. Cache data can become outdated or corrupted over time, especially after updating apps or running for a long stretch without a reboot. This then leads to unexpected behavior.
Deleting the cache removes this problematic data, giving apps a fresh start and often instantly resolving bugs and glitches.
How to Clear Cache on Your Smart TV
Now that you know the why, how do you clear the cache on a smart TV?
NOTE: I'm detailing how to delete cached data on Google TV. If your smart TV has a different operating system, please refer to your manufacturer's manual for instructions. The steps will vary depending on your TV manufacturer and the operating system your TV uses.
- Select the Settings (Cog) icon in the top-right corner of your TV's home screen, and then click All settings to open your TV's Settings app.
- Navigate to System > Storage.
- Next, select Internal shared storage. You'll see a breakdown of your storage use.
- Select Cached data and click OK to delete.
Your smart TV may take a few seconds to delete the data, but once done, you'll see the amount of storage used by cached data drop significantly. You can also clear cache per app by going to Settings > Apps > See all apps, selecting an app, and choosing Clear cache.
Clearing your smart TV's cache may seem like a minor maintenance task, but it's essential. From speeding up your system and freeing storage to fixing buggy apps, it's a simple way to keep your TV running smoothly. If you haven't done it for a while, now's the perfect time to give your smart TV a refresh.
How to Disable ACR on Your TV - Why it Makes Such a Big Difference
for Privacy
By Chris Bayer for zdnet
Smarter TV operating systems bring added convenience-- but also new privacy concerns, especially from automatic content recognition (ACR), which quietly tracks everything you watch.
Smarter TV operating systems bring added convenience-- but also new privacy concerns, especially from automatic content recognition (ACR), which quietly tracks everything you watch.
Kerry Wan/ZDNET
Did you know that whenever you turn on your smart TV, you invite an unseen guest to watch it with you?
These days, most popular TV models utilize automatic content recognition (ACR), a form of ad surveillance technology that gathers information about everything you watch and transmits it to a centralized database. Manufacturers then use your data to identify your viewing preferences, enabling them to deliver highly targeted ads.
What's the incentive behind this invasive technology? According to market research firm eMarketer, in 2022, advertisers spent an estimated $18.6 billion on smart TV ads, and those numbers are only going up.
To understand how ACR works, imagine a constant, real-time Shazam-like service running in the background while your TV is on. It identifies content displayed on your screen, including programs from cable TV boxes, streaming services, or gaming consoles. ACR does this by capturing continuous screenshots and cross-referencing them with a vast database of media content and advertisements.
According to The Markup, ACR can capture and identify up to 7,200 images per hour, or approximately 2 images every second. This extensive tracking offers money-making insights for marketers and content distributors because it can reveal connections between viewers' personal information and their preferred content. By "personal information," I mean email addresses, IP addresses-- and even your physical street address.
By understanding what viewers watch and engage with, marketers can make decisions on content recommendations to create bespoke advertising placements. They can also track advertisements that lead to purchases.
But the most disturbing part is the potential for exploitation. In the wrong hands, sensitive information gathered through ACR could be exploited or misused, which may result in security risks or, at worst, identity theft.
Because ACR operates clandestinely in the background, many of us aren't even aware of its active presence each time we're enjoying our favorite shows. Opting out of using ACR is complex and sometimes challenging. Navigating through your TV settings might take several dozen clicks to protect your privacy better.
If you, like me, perceive this feature to be intrusive or unsettling, there's a way to dismiss this data collection feature on your smart TV. It might take some patience, but below is a How-To list for 5 major brands demonstrating how to turn off ACR.
How to turn off ACR on a smart TV
For Samsung TVs…
For an LG TV…
LG further allows you to limit ad tracking, which can be found in Additional Settings.
You can also turn off home promotions and content recommendations:
For a Sony TV…
Sony also allows for enhanced privacy by disabling ad personalization:
As an extra step, you can entirely disable the Samba Services Manager, which is embedded in the firmware of certain Sony Bravia TVs as a 3rd-party interactive app.
If your Sony TV uses Android TV, you should also turn off data collection for Chromecast:
For a Hisense TV…
To disable personalized ads and opt out of content recommendations:
For a TCL TV (and other Roku-powered TVs)…
For extra privacy, TCL TVs offer a few more options, all of which can be found in the Privacy menu:
Remember that while these steps will significantly reduce data collection, they may also limit some smart features of your TV. Also, it's a good idea to periodically check these settings to ensure they remain as you've set them. Especially after software updates, your revised settings may sometimes revert to their default state.
The driving force behind targeted advertisements on smart TVs is ACR technology, and its inclusion speaks volumes about manufacturers' focus on monetizing user data rather than prioritizing consumer interests.
For most of us, ACR offers few tangible benefits, while the real-time sharing of our viewing habits and preferences exposes us to potential privacy risks. By disabling ACR, you can help keep your data to yourself, and enjoy viewing with some peace of mind.
These days, most popular TV models utilize automatic content recognition (ACR), a form of ad surveillance technology that gathers information about everything you watch and transmits it to a centralized database. Manufacturers then use your data to identify your viewing preferences, enabling them to deliver highly targeted ads.
What's the incentive behind this invasive technology? According to market research firm eMarketer, in 2022, advertisers spent an estimated $18.6 billion on smart TV ads, and those numbers are only going up.
To understand how ACR works, imagine a constant, real-time Shazam-like service running in the background while your TV is on. It identifies content displayed on your screen, including programs from cable TV boxes, streaming services, or gaming consoles. ACR does this by capturing continuous screenshots and cross-referencing them with a vast database of media content and advertisements.
According to The Markup, ACR can capture and identify up to 7,200 images per hour, or approximately 2 images every second. This extensive tracking offers money-making insights for marketers and content distributors because it can reveal connections between viewers' personal information and their preferred content. By "personal information," I mean email addresses, IP addresses-- and even your physical street address.
By understanding what viewers watch and engage with, marketers can make decisions on content recommendations to create bespoke advertising placements. They can also track advertisements that lead to purchases.
But the most disturbing part is the potential for exploitation. In the wrong hands, sensitive information gathered through ACR could be exploited or misused, which may result in security risks or, at worst, identity theft.
Because ACR operates clandestinely in the background, many of us aren't even aware of its active presence each time we're enjoying our favorite shows. Opting out of using ACR is complex and sometimes challenging. Navigating through your TV settings might take several dozen clicks to protect your privacy better.
If you, like me, perceive this feature to be intrusive or unsettling, there's a way to dismiss this data collection feature on your smart TV. It might take some patience, but below is a How-To list for 5 major brands demonstrating how to turn off ACR.
How to turn off ACR on a smart TV
For Samsung TVs…
- Press the Home button on your remote control.
- Navigate to the left to access the sidebar menu.
- In the sidebar menu, choose the Privacy Choices option.
- Select the Terms & Conditions, Privacy Policy option.
- Ensure that the checkbox for Viewing Information Services is unchecked. This will turn off ACR and any associated ad targeting.
- Select the OK option at the bottom of the screen to confirm your changes.
For an LG TV…
- Press the Home button on your remote control to access the home screen.
- Press the Settings button on your remote.
- In the settings side menu, select the Settings option.
- Navigate to and select the General option.
- In the General menu, choose System.
- Select Additional Settings.
- In Additional Settings, locate and toggle off the Live Plus option.
LG further allows you to limit ad tracking, which can be found in Additional Settings.
- In the Additional Settings menu, select Advertisement.
- Toggle on the Limit AD Tracking option.
You can also turn off home promotions and content recommendations:
- In the Additional Settings menu, select Home Settings.
- Uncheck the Home Promotion option.
- Uncheck the Content Recommendation option.
For a Sony TV…
- Press the Home button on your remote control to access the main menu.
- Navigate to and select Settings.
- Choose Initial Setup.
- Scroll down and select Samba Interactive TV.
- Select Disable to turn off Samba TV, which is Sony's ACR technology.
Sony also allows for enhanced privacy by disabling ad personalization:
- Go to Settings.
- Select About.
- Choose Ads.
- Turn off Ads Personalization.
As an extra step, you can entirely disable the Samba Services Manager, which is embedded in the firmware of certain Sony Bravia TVs as a 3rd-party interactive app.
- Go to Settings.
- Select Apps.
- Select Samba Services Manager.
- Choose Clear Cache.
- Select Force Stop.
- Finally, select Disable.
If your Sony TV uses Android TV, you should also turn off data collection for Chromecast:
- Open the Google Home app on your smartphone.
- Tap the Menu icon.
- Select your TV from the list of devices.
- Tap the 3-dots in the upper right corner.
- Choose Settings.
- Turn off Send Chromecast device usage data and crash reports.
For a Hisense TV…
- Press the Home button on your remote control to access the main menu.
- Navigate to and select Settings.
- Choose System.
- Select Privacy.
- Look for an option called Smart TV Experience, Viewing Information Services, or something similar.
- Toggle this option off to disable ACR.
To disable personalized ads and opt out of content recommendations:
- In the Privacy menu, look for an option like Ad Tracking or Interest-Based Ads.
- Turn this option off.
- Look for options related to content recommendations or personalized content.
- Disable these features if you don't want the TV to suggest content based on your viewing habits.
For a TCL TV (and other Roku-powered TVs)…
- Press the Home button on your TCL TV remote control.
- Navigate to and select Settings in the main menu.
- Scroll down and select the Privacy option.
- Look for Smart TV Experience and select it.
- Uncheck or toggle off the option labeled Use Info from TV Inputs.
For extra privacy, TCL TVs offer a few more options, all of which can be found in the Privacy menu:
- Select Advertising.
- Choose Limit ad tracking.
- Again, select Advertising.
- Uncheck Personalized ads.
- Now, still in the Privacy menu, select Microphone.
- Adjust Channel Microphone Access and Channel Permissions as desired.
Remember that while these steps will significantly reduce data collection, they may also limit some smart features of your TV. Also, it's a good idea to periodically check these settings to ensure they remain as you've set them. Especially after software updates, your revised settings may sometimes revert to their default state.
The driving force behind targeted advertisements on smart TVs is ACR technology, and its inclusion speaks volumes about manufacturers' focus on monetizing user data rather than prioritizing consumer interests.
For most of us, ACR offers few tangible benefits, while the real-time sharing of our viewing habits and preferences exposes us to potential privacy risks. By disabling ACR, you can help keep your data to yourself, and enjoy viewing with some peace of mind.
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